THEGAYUK

Tag: Four Star Restaurant Review

The latest Four Star Restaurant Review from THEGAYUK.

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW: Hunter 486 @ The Arch, London

    Hunter 486 is situated within the Arch Hotel (we sneaked a peak at one of their delightful, bright and cosy rooms before we were seated- always a good sign to see a Bang & Olufsen phone in a bathroom).

    486 being the original dialling code for the area that the hotel appears to show much loyalty to via adorning walls in artistic photographs of local architecture, and even a one off piece of art by Vincent Poole concocted from the names of local streets, shops and galleries.

    There are three elements to Hunter 486; the bar, the champagne lounge (with leather booths, curtained for privacy), and the main restaurant, with an open kitchen on view, equipped with stone oven, hanging pots from the ceiling, and the chefs are pretty cute to boot too, which surely is the best thing about an open kitchen from a diner’s perspective, right?

    Some delightful options for tidbits / pre-starters are available, us opting for the Quail Scotch Eggs (£3), beautifully presented with trickling sunny yolks next to a pot of crunchy teeny cubed vegetable piccalilli. The scotch eggs deep-fried in a fine golden batter, encasing a wonderfully intense herby pork sausage, and perfectly cooked lovely, runny, quail’s egg (fab with the piquant piccalilli). This was an absolute peach of a dish, I feel it should feature as a proper starter option, somehow.

    Along with the eggs we tried some Homemade Crisps (£3), which were channelling an epic roast dinner via flavours coming from lemon and sage. Also at the table were a couple of homemade breads; the brown being nutty and sweet, slightly heavy for me – but the breadwinner of the plate being a crusty fluffy olive bread, which makes some seriously charming chemistry with mopping up of the scotch egg yolk.
    Never one to ignore scallops on the menu, it was medleyed with scorched chunks of chorizo and silky smooth strips of roast red pepper, altogether creating a flavourful din atop a pale green rocket salad (£12.50). Aesthetically the plate is perfection, which matches the cooking of the scallops.

    However, rivalling the scallops’ splendour, a colourful and fragrant Heritage Beetroot & Orange Salad (£8). Beautiful beets in three shades with bright orange slices create earthy and tart boldness that crave the mellowness that the chopped hazelnuts and goats’ cheese crouton bring to the dish. A symphony on a plate.

    What strikes me from the mains menu, is that nothing really strikes me. We both struggled to pick something, which is a shame as decisions were instantaneous with the starters (and we had even chosen desserts). The mains lack the creative flair that’s seen throughout the rest of the menu, and even in the hotel itself. Nothing jumps out from the “pubby” selection of burgers, steak, pizza, fish & chips etc.

    Due to season, Hunter 486 also had a thanksgiving menu, so we ordered one of the Norfolk Bronze Turkeys with roast sweet potatoes, glazed root vegetables and cranberry sauce. The meat was not dry at all, perfectly moist. Essentially a very good roast dinner, and it is what it is really, but there was no wow factor.

    The same enthusiasm with the other main on the table, in the form of Braised Lamb Shank (£19), with Mediterranean spiced aubergine and chickpeas. Served in a bowl decorated by a rim of an intensely sharp and minty sauce that was fab, and looked great against the dominant reds of the dish, adding a bit of zing to counteract a rich gravy from the lovely lamb. The chickpeas could have done with a couple more minutes cooking but other than that the dish was great, but again no wow factor. All down to, I feel, an uninspiring selection on offer.
    Desserts? Here we go, Hunter 486 back on form. There were so many enticing options (all @ £6.50) that we ordered three to share between the two of us. Hazelnut & Apple Tart – Sweet dreams are made of THIS; Pastry perfection with sweet toasty cinnamon lacing the nutty and dewy apple filling. A few sticky syrupy globules encasing crunchy whole hazelnuts decorate the plate, and i mourn for it as i pass to my friend to share.

    Coconut Panna Cotta and its creamy, silken texture paired with a bold, icy mango sorbet takes me somewhere tropical. The sorbet was leaning on the over powering side as the coconut flavour of the panna cotta was a little shy. A few toasted coconut flakes on the plate attempt to reinforce the flavour. Passing the plate over, the panna cotta delightfully wobbling as it went, i was almost tempted to wolf whistle at it.

    A refreshing clementine salad made a wonderful close to the meal, being zesty, cleansing and uplifting. Paired with toasted almonds, and another burst of freshness from pomegranate jewels, strewn with a herby hint of mint. I cleverly saved this for last as its healthy exuberance and feel good factor makes me forgive (but certainly not forget) the indulgence of the two desserts prior.
    As our plates were being cleared by the very well dressed and charming service staff, I go over the dishes that we had in my mind, and it is such a shame that there was that creative and flavour lull mid-meal with the mains. Everything else around this however, was absolutely enchanting; the starters and desserts stick with me still, and I would come back to Hunter 486 if not only for those gorgeous scotch eggs (and yes perhaps another slice of that hauntingly good hazelnut & apple tart). The good by far outweighs the disappointing, and i would even say it’s now on my list of the most memorable meals I have had for various reasons, and that surely, is good food.

    Reviewed by: @Lohanjordan

    ADDRESS: The Arch London, 50 Great Cumberland Place, Marble Arch, London, W1H 7FD

    PHONE:+44 (0)207 724 4700

    PRICE: ££££

    STAR: ****

    TIPPING POLICY: Optional 12.5% will be added to your bill.

    MAKE A RESERVATION: http://www.opentable.com/hunter-486-brasserie?page=5

  • RESTAURANT REVIEWS: The Narrow, Limehouse

    Cussy-Chops’s (Gordon Ramsay’s) hard graft has been decorated with numerous Michelin stars since 1993 – the Gordon Ramsay group currently own 25 restaurants globally.

    For Cussy-Chops, running a nosh-house is much like Karl Lagerfeld designing a red-carpet dazzler – a natural. His top table, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road London, is one of only four eateries in the UK that currently hold three Michelin stars.

    Last month THEGAYUK were invited to sample Ramsay’s culinary fare, minus reality-TV cameras, to see if there is ‘Hell’ in The Narrow Limehouse London’s ‘Kitchen’.

    In 2007 The Narrow’s doors were first flung open, and it’s clear that was the last time the interior received any TLC. She’s neatly situated by the Thames – from the conservatory, your view to the left is the financial hub of London, and to the right, the Shard beams at you in all its phallic glory. Despite this sophisticated location, there’s a feeling that you could be visiting your great-grandma in her residential home – sun-bleached blue sofas and a complete lack of attempt to hide the B&Q-style window frames.

    The gastro pub’s toilets matched the standard of a Wetherspoon’s during the World Cup. Cussy-Chops and his Kitchen Nightmare team should get back on the road and head to Limehouse and address his own flagging decor.

    We were seated in the Nana’s glass-house and offered an apéritif – cocktails seemed appropriate.

    Devil in Disguise: Leblon Cachaca, Green Chartreuse, Martini Bianco, white Cacao and lemon. A slight undercurrent similar to tequila with herby notes. In the description, the Devil boasts: Our creation to expose chocolate and lemon magnificent compatibility – hm. Got the lemon, maybe they overexposed the chocolate. Refreshing all the same.

    Internacional: Bacardi Superior, apricot-infused Martini Rosso and Kümmel. If you could drink a Cuban version of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, this is what it would taste like. An original, heavily-scented imbibe that jabs with potency and flavours of cumin.

    Good service in a Ramsay gaff is like buff, topless bar staff at Ku Bar – totally expected. We weren’t disappointed. NoF Words passed our lips – the staff were knowledgeable and treated us as if we were regulars.

    To oil the food devouring, our waiter chose a bottle of Gouguenheim Valle Escondido Malbec, Mendoza 2014, from Argentina. A deep red, rich and forceful number – aromas of currants chocolate and cherries with a lasting finish. Malbec-n-marvellous.

    To start, from the specials’ board: goat’s cheese and spinach ravioli. Al dente and piping hot – the goat cheese’s strong flavour didn’t overpower but gave a notable presence. Delicious.

    Our other starter: Potted salt beef with apple, pickle and sourdough. Think pastrami minus the pepper. A decent pub potted meat.

    For a Tuesday night, Gordon’s gaff was simmering with locals who’d come straight from the office or schlepped from their Limehouse pied-à-terres, giving the riverside eatery a warm and relaxed atmosphere.

    For our mains: Wye Valley duck breast with port sauce, confit garlic and sautéed potatoes. The duck was succulent and pink in the middle, verging on the sweet side, beautifully mirrored by the rich sauce.

    commendation: the 10oz Aberdeenshire ribeye with peppercorn sauce. Ribeye can be riddled with fat, thus spoiling the consumption. This was a quality cut of beef, tender and without a fat infestation. The sauce was light, not too creamy – the corns liquified on the tongue.

    We shared a couple of sides: creamy spinach and rosemary hand-cut chips. The spinach was fluffy and the chips were crisp, but seemed to have detached themselves from the rosemary.

    Belt loops by pud time were feeling the pressure – but we soldiered on.

    We shared a banana sticky toffee pudding with Purbeck salted caramel ice cream and, from the specials, a vanilla creme brûlée. Our waiter, who had a slight touch of the Robert Downey Jr’s about him, urged us toward said sticky pud – we were jolly pleased he did. The velvety sponge brimmed with banana and flattered the premium south-west ice cream.

    The brûlée slipped off the spoon like gazpacho – it wasn’t set. A good crunch to the head and the vanilla pulled through.

    Finally, a couple of espresso martinis to aid our navigational system for the journey home – more ice-lolly than flat-white – lush.

    Dear Cussy-Chops, take some spondoodles out of your ever-expanding bank account and spruce up The Narrow- one facelift and you’ll have yourself a pretty respectable gastro pub – just sayin.

     

    REVIEWED BY: Thabian Sutherland

    ADDRESS: 44 Narrow Street, London, E14 8DP

    TELEPHONE: +44 (0) 207 592 7950

    EMAIL: thenarrow@gordonramsay.com

    WEBSITE: https://www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/the-narrow/

    RATING: ★★★★ (explained)

    PRICE: ££££ (explained)

    Tipping Policy: A discretionary service charge of 12.5% will be added to your bill.

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Wringer & Mangle

    The Gay UK team are a clean and fastidious bunch, so it seemed perfectly apt we were invited to the opening of a former industrial laundry in the Big Smoke’s hipster hang-out, London Fields.

    We didn’t take our dirty smalls, or our scented-passion-flower-and-ylang-ylang Comfort, or indeed pack our Fairy non-bio washing powder. Twists were for martinis, the only things sodden were the guests’ esophaguses from the plentiful cocktails, and only a few lightweight journos were mangled.

    Award-winning mixologist and restaurateur Gerry Calabrese has eighteen years experience, and a few distinguished names hanging from his washing-line of achievements. Calabrese is the founder of the Hoxton Pony and his new venture Wringer & Mangle (W&M). Gerry launched Hoxton Gin, and has worked with The British Fashion Council, Mulberry, and Bentley – there are no stains on him.

    To enter W&M you walk through a terrace, and past a Moroccan-style den, where lattice fencing, riddled with ivy, sections off an outdoor seating area surrounding a fire pit. Ideal for an aperitif – so we did. Cushions, candles and outdoor heaters will keep you snug as a duvet in a tumble dryer.
    First bevvy of the night, The Bramble Collins: Finlandia Vodka with fresh blackberries, sugar syrup, fresh sage, topped with ginger root and honey soda. Earthy, sweet and bitter, with a twinge of woody-ness from the sage. We washed it down.

    Walking into the main building, you could be fooled into thinking you’d just entered a high-flying artisan New Yorker’s oversized loft apartment. Concrete ceiling, exposed brick, mismatched tables, a few animal skulls and abstract art cakes the walls. All lit by naked Victorian bulbs and copper lighting – there’s something for the fastwashers, you delicates out there, and for those who just wanna rinse, spin and pump-out – W&M will appeal to the bulk of East London dwellers.

    While schmoozing with the trendy-Wendys, happening-hacks and look-at-me-Larrys, canapés were wafted around like incense at a pilgrims’ gathering. Beetroot, goat curd and fig tarts – bland. Mackerel tartar and pickled cucumber – an assertive fishy punch, toned down beautifully by the drunk cucumber – exquisite. Pig’s head terrine and mustard vinaigrette – not too coarse, quality meat, elevated by garlic notes and a grainy sense – yummy.

    Our next tipple, The Pre-Wash Collins: Bombay Sapphire, gin-infused cucumber, topped with cucumber and cardamom foam. Its botanical garden aroma teases you first, followed by the texture of a gingery, bubbly lather – then something sweet and spicy happens – the Hotpoint of the night.
    Once we’d caught a glimpse of Professor Green and could practically smell the Rizzle Kicks, the mains were being dished out by dishy staff.

    Braised lamb shoulder with pearl barley and rosemary – the grain was tender, salty and packed undertones of parsley and onion, complementing the fragrant meat – damn tasty.

    Autumnal vegetable stew – root vegetables were brought to life in this bowl of warmth and goodness – a superb veg stew.

    Smoked haddock chowder – we were just missing a couple of sporrans and some droning highland melodies – almost as good as Glasgow’s finest.
    We’ll definitely be Whirlpool-ing our way back to try their ‘Traditional Roast Sirloin of Beef with all the trimmings’ one Sunday – they’ll be no Wringer-ing out ya purse at only £15 a pop. But they can scrub the phallic communal hand soap in the lavs – we’re not asking for an automatic-washer, just quality washroom hand soap worthy of an old washhouse. We left dry-clean, colour-safe and folded back home nicely – care symbol: regular visits a must.
    Wringer & Mangle

    REVIEWED BY: Thabian Sutherland

    ADDRESS: The Laundry Building, 2-18 Warburton Road, London E8 3FN

    RATING: ★★★★ (explained)

    COST: £££ (explained)
    http://www.wringerandmangle.com

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW: Nam Long Le Shaker

    Nam Long Le Shaker has earned a reputation in three decades for late night imbibing amongst the trust fund Ralph-Lauren-shirt brigade, the wannabe Sloane-ranger Fulhamites, and on occasions blue blood and various big-screen prancers wipe the impurities from Old Brompton Road on their doormat. ★★★★

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  • RESTAURANT REVIEW: Shikumen (Shepherds Bush)

    Dim Sum are an absolute pleasure, they fill me with joy (and best of all, variety satiety).

    I regard them as little presents, neatly wrapped with contents of treasure. Having a quick lunch at the Shikumen with good company and lots of these little presents, make good for an hour of paradise.

    The restaurant itself has a moody feel with lots of dark woods and patterned trellising providing privacy. Lots of pretty traditional ceramics are on display on the tables, ready to receive some wonderful tea the Shikumen have on the menu. We tried the Dragon’s well (Zhejian, £2.80) and Yunnan Pu-Erh (£2.50), which were both lovely, aromatic and topped up swiftly by the staff.

    Even though both myself and guest had decided on dim sum all the way, I did have a glance at the a la carte menu and was pleased to see a range of interesting dishes; black cod, squirrel fish (Seabass), Pork with bitter melon etc. Their alcohol / drinks menu was also extremely extensive, and I spotted a green tea creme brûlée on the dessert menu, making Shikumen very tempting for a re-visit over dinner sometime.

    Our dim sum began to flow to the table very quickly, just what you need on a lunch break! All the dishes we had came in three or four pieces, and we had probably over ordered (curse of the tidbits tummy!).

    Pumpkin Seafood Dumpling (£3.80) – Beautiful little balls of sunshine, brightly coloured from the pumpkin, encasing a sweet whole prawn cocooned inside. My friend remarked on how these looked like the little Indian saffron sweets you can get. These worked really well in a little dip of the chilli condiments that are brought to the table to offset the natural sweetness of the dish.

    Chicken Taro Croquettes (£3.50) – Now these really did look fantastic. Chicken and mushroom in a deep, rich savoury gravy, deep fried in a crispy pastry web- little grenades of textures and flavour. These were probably my favourite, and there was definitely an air of nostalgia to the dish as it almost had a chicken and mushroom pie feeling to it.

    Pan-Fried Turnip Cake (£3.20) – My other favourite of the dishes served, this sweet, garlicky, soft (almost fish-like) fleshy textured savoury cake had me going back for more and more. Everything about the dish i found enchanting, in as much as in appearance looks very simple almost bland but its texture and flavour are actually quite complex, wonderful.
    Roasted Duck Pumpkin Puff (£3.80) – More balls of sunshine, golden and crisp exterior with a spongy, duck filled gravy inside that had strong peppery notes and a nice little appearance from pine nuts for an added texture and buttery-ness. Crabmeat & Prawn Dumpling (£3.80) – Stunning and almost floral in its presentation, topped with caviar. A lovely, mellow and aromatic flavour with silky seafood, complimented by a hit of sharp spring onion. Baked Venison Puff (£4.20) – Presented on a triangle shaped piece of puff pastry, glazed and topped with sesame seeds. This was very sweet initially but moments later came forth a bit of heat and spiciness, which was welcomed. Another appearance from pine nuts worked with the soft texture of the venison. Char Siew Bun (£3.20) – The staple dish of any dim sum menu. It came to the table in a familiar bun presentation. Sweet red onion made for a crunchy experience, and it was refreshing to receive the bun itself not overly sticky (which can be the case more than often in some places). I would say Shikumen’s pricing with their dim sum menu is spot on, I would definitely come back to a Shikumen restaurant, if not only to get my teeth into that green tea creme brûlée!
    Shikumen are adding a single red dumpling to every order of Xiao Long Bao throughout October to honour President Xi Jinping’s State visit to London. STARS: ★★★★

    PRICE: £££

    Venue Address:

    (Check their website for other locations)

    Shikumen Shepherd’s Bush

    Dorsett Hotel

    58 Shepherd’s Bush Green

    London

    W12 8QE
    Venue phone: 020 8749 9978
    Tipping policy: http://www.shikumen.co.uk/shepherds-bush/contact/

    Reviewed by Jordan Lohan | @lohanjordan

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW: Zaika of Kensington Restaurant Review

    Who loves a good ruby? Indian cuisine isn’t something i have regularly, and perhaps it’s my childhood memories of my Granny’s (who grew up in Vizag, India) infamous egg curry. Apparently it was delicious but not to the palette of a 7 year old. ★★★★

    Dining with me at Zaika of Kensington, my best friend, who grew up in Nepal and we immediately connect and get chatting to our waiter, Mustaq. Throughout, his service was perfection and in response to our enquiry on his favourites the restaurant had to offer, he demonstrated great knowledge of the menu and even some of the dishes backgrounds, and i love hearing interesting legacies of food and its history.
    It’s history that you’re immediately hit with as soon you enter Zaika, in terms of the building’s architectural aspect. Grand high ceiling with dramatic mouldings, austere window frames, a perfect marriage of classical and contemporary. It is clear they want to give you the impression that this is not your usual curry house, and that continues into the food served too.
    We dined at an odd eating time, so the restaurant seemed grandly desolate. We were happy with the echoes of our cackles for company but both agreed that Zaika would have a great vibe during a busy evening.
    To start, Aloo Palak Tikki (£8.50), essentially little potato and spinach cakes that were cooked handsomely, crispy exterior and fluffy on the inside- plain in flavour but intentional as they come served on a bed of cold and creamy, spicy chickpeas. The whole dish was drizzled in a sweet yoghurt and adorned in pomegranate jewels. So very pretty and a clever configuration of flavours and textures.
    Jhinga Dakshini (£9.50) – nugget-like and light gram flour battered tiger prawns, not the most impressive sized prawns which was a little disappointing, as like my men, i enjoy them a bit beefier. Again this appetiser’s flavour was on point, the paprika-y prawns served with a sweet, turmeric, pale yoghurt. The flavours in both appetisers were really well balanced and full of flavour without being overly seasoned or spiced as to dominate the palette before the main courses.

    Nihari Gosht (£23), lamb that is slow cooked over night, and upon offer was then deboned at our table and served to us. Lightly aromatic, lovely and creamy; the lamb was silky soft, and still retained all its wonderful natural flavours. Lamb is the meat of choice in Northern India’s Awadhi cuisine, which Zaika’s menu focuses on. Although there is plenty of choice in terms of meat, poultry and vegetarian.
    I couldn’t not order a tikka masala for a main, it being one of Britain’s favourite dishes, so we tried the Paneer version (£14.50). Constantly impressed by Zaika’s flavour balance, this was more spicy for a tikka masala but a scattering of desiccated coconut subtly slurs underneath all that spice and cools the palette. The paneer was firm and almost sweet which worked really well.
    No matter how well you feel you cook your rice at home, it always surprises me when you have rice from an Authentic Indian restaurant, and it’s always ridiculously superior, and Zaika’s Zaffrani Pulao (£3.75) was no exception.
    A treat via Truffle Naan (£3.75) which was everything a naan should be; crispy and chewy. Delicate truffle notes and light. A winner for sponging up remaining sauce on your plate to the point my plate looked untouched.This was plenty of food for us both, but still wanting to explore their dessert menu and akin to the magnetism of a tikka masala, a good traditional Indian kulfi is always welcomed at the end of a big meal. Zaika’s Classic Kulfi; Mango & Pistachios (£6) is one not to be missed. Beautifully crafted and presented a top a strip of khaki coloured pistachio nut smudge, which I really wanted to just lick off the plate, it was so divine. The kulfi themselves were surprising in as much as they were not overly cold and even those with the most sensitive of teeth could even bite straight into. Wonderfully rich and creamy, a light mango morsel paired with a deep almost marzipan flavour in the pistachio pebble of kulfi. We asked for a small version of the dish and upon touchdown on the tastebuds, that decision was immediately regretted.
    Suitably stuffed and smiles on our faces we waddled back to the tube (5 minute walk from the restaurant) and agreed that Zaika of Kensington went above and beyond the usual expectations of Indian cuisine and we would both happily come back. I feel the pricing of the dishes are on point for the quality and execution. The whole experience felt grand and glam, with office Christmas party season approaching, if you have a team of curry fans, Zaika of Kensington is the place for you.

    Make a booking here

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Ember Yard Soho

    Ember Yard Soho is Timeout’s number two destination restaurant at the moment. Chiltern Firehouse is their top-of-the-pops. Leaving the reservation arrangements to the last minute meant THEGAYUK had more chance of interviewing Banksy than securing a table a Chiltern. Ember Yard could squeeze, literally, a table for two in at 9.45pm. Leaving plenty of time for pre-dinner sharpeners.

    A busy gentleman greeted us with beaming pearly whites and led us to the table. It’s a good job neither party was of a large persuasion. We were wedged into a corner table, thus making lav trips a bit like putting ya fave skinnies on after they’ve been washed.

    Our waitress Gabriella appeared at all the appropriate moments, guided us through the menu and suggested all our tapas. Gabriella had an air of landlady about her, she was natural and knowledgeable.

    The venue has a cosy, contemporary loft-apartment feel with dark wooden floors, pillars, beams and grey walls. There’s a mixture of seating, from high stalls and counters to tables, chairs and banquettes. All warmly lit by bulbous exposed light bulbs dangling from pipes on the ceiling.

    The place was full of diners that could no doubt walk, or jump in a rickshaw home.

    We went straight in with vino and opted for the Mas Macia Blanc Catalunya 2014. One word in the description pulled us towards this minerally, ripe-apple-enriched number: honeyed. We should have been shooing bees away once the cork was popped.

    Ember’s cuisine is inspired by Spanish and Italian chargrill methods of cooking. The menu is broken up into bar snacks, tapas and a couple of larger dishes to share.

    Each plate arrived as soon as it was ready.

    First up, burrata with chargrilled ciabatta, heritage tomatoes and wild garlic pesto. Gabriella’s favourite. It was like cutting into a chocolate fondant with a melted centre. The mozzarella outer layer hides a buttery smooth core. A great balance of crunch and creaminess all elevated by a right hook from the pesto.

    Next to appear, applewood-smoked bream carpaccio with pomegranate, coriander and bottarga. The sea bream was slightly overpowered by the salty fish roe and coriander. Zesty, delicate and enjoyable.

    To follow, courgette flower stuffed with goat’s cheese and drizzled with honey. If you’re going to clog your arteries with fried food this is the way to do it. The strong flavour from the cheese lifts the courgette while the honey brings a floral element to the dish. The three amalgamate like a pair of Grenson brogues, a crisp-white Burberry shirt and slim-fit Nudie indigo jeans.

    And then, roasted and chargrilled Ibérico pork ribs with quince glaze and celeriac purée. Once we’d tackled the charcoal, fig-like-flavoured crispy shell the meat slid off of the bone. The textures worked. TGI’s should come and take notes.

    The last dish, smoked and grilled beef burger with pickled courgette, chilli jam and scamorza. Perfectly formed. The chilli jam, or chelly, left a sweet but fiery undertone.

    If you need an excuse not to don ya frilly apron and turn the oven on, Ember’s burrata will suffice. We ordered a second.

    Pud came in liquid form.

    One glass of Finca Antigua Moscatel. The first sip unravels a silky layer over the tongue, followed by a sweet frill.

    And a glass of Lazio Shiraz. A peppery and berry perfumed little tinker. Reminiscent of those cherry-liqueured chocolates you get from M&S at Christmas. But much more palatable.

    The bill was a reasonable £106.16. Chiltern Smiltern. We still had enough in the kitty to swing around a pole at The Village, hit the Shadow Lounge and spill into an Uber home.

    Reviewed by Thabian Sutherland
    Ember Yard
    60 Berwick Street
    London
    W1F 8SU
    Tel: 0207 439 8057
    info@emberyard.co.uk
    http://emberyard.co.uk
    STAR RATING: ★★★★ (explained)
    PRICE: £££ (explained)

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | L’Escargot

    With a rather grand welcome from the fabulously loud front of house, we were taken to our seats giggling as he continued to tickle us with his wit.

    The grand element continues, taking in our surroundings. It’s a posh crowd- a mix of business bods and rich romantics (one couple in particular really should have hired one of L’escargot’s private rooms). The lights are dim, and I find myself sinking into the comfy seat whilst admiring a lot of classic décor touches that surround us.

    We were brought a selection of warm, homemade crusty breads with a moreish tapenade- being advised that the selection of tapenades and bread accompaniments often change seasonally. After forgetting completely where I was and asking for Prosecco in a French cuisine restaurant, we asked the sommelier’s recommendation on the Roses available. Rose has gained a better reputation recently and there are some lovely varieties out there now. We went for the Bandol Rosé, Dom. La Suffrene, C. Granvier, 2013 (£38.00). Which you have to try- fantastic. Their wine list is ridiculously extensive so you have plenty to suit your taste!
    To start I went for the Foie Gras with kumquats & brioche (£18). Despite this being straight from the fridge kinda cold, the quality coming through was great, and they had not messed around with the dish at all- Foie Gras in it’s simplest and best form. Even the word kumquat makes me want to gag so these were left at the side of my plate.

    My friend went for the Six Snails with garlic & parsley (£12). The snails were plump and came easily out of their shell. Great garlic flavour and the oil in the dish made an amazing dip for the bread, of which we were offered more of at this point.

    After our table was “crumbed down”, our mains shortly followed. Clearly I had the taste for suffering that day as what followed my Foie Gras was a huge slab of Veal (£18)- a massive portion of well cooked meat in a light lemon breadcrumb. With the menu being a la carte we ordered a few sides that I found on the small side for their price.

    Green beans cooked in garlic (£5) – perfectly cooked. Dauphinoise (£6) – there is never enough dauphinoise, but this portion of creamy garlic potatoes and cheese was minute. New potatoes (£5) cooked with herbs, these had slightly too much bite for my preference, but I always say rather al dente than mush with vegetables.

    The other main we ordered was the Sea Bass – crispy skin and succulent flesh served with a sauce vert- lemon, cream, parsley. This really was a lovely dish and I’m not normally a fan of sea bass but the execution was flawless.

    So very much looking forward to the desserts at a fine French restaurant, I was not disappointed. Cream cake extravaganza. The tarte du jour (£6) was an almond galette. Uber rich and uber tempting to re-create that Smack The Pony sketch with, where they face plant the dessert tray whilst slurring jibberish-French lingo.

    Double teaming the cream cakes we also took on the Paris Brest – made with choux pastry, hazelnuts and bursting at the seams with cream. So simple but so good my favourite of the two. My love for praline is insatiable.

    The food is very simple, but very well done. For me this is a restaurant serving fantastic food with seasonal changes, and a lovely professional (but humorous) team. I personally feel that the pricing is a little over, but L’escargot has been regularly voted one of the best French restaurants in London, so I would encourage you to take a look and experience for yourself.

    An extra star goes for the venue itself. The venue of L’escargot is huge (four floors). You don’t quite realise being sat in the restaurant how many more levels and rooms there are to the place. With six rooms for hire, I feel this really gives L’escargot a unique edge.

    The different rooms are named simply after the colour of them (Blue, Violet, Red etc.). There is also an upstairs exclusive club which you will need to contact L’escargot for more details on. But it is rather swanky up there, spotting some Versace home ware pieces as we walked through. Ask for the grand tour.

    If you were to become a member it means you can take advantage of exclusive hire of any of their rooms, free of charge. Dinner packages are available pre and post-theatre (2 or 3 courses – £17.50/£21.50).

    They also have a dog-friendly club policy offering complimentary food & treats for your pup.

    REVIEWED BY: Jordan Lohan
    ADDRESS: L’Escargot, 48 GREEK STREET, LONDON, SOHO, W1D 4EF
    WEBSITE: http://www.lescargot.co.uk
    STAR RATING: ★★★★ (explained)
    PRICE RATING: £££££ (explained)
    TIPPING POLICY: There is a discretionary 12.5% service charge added to your bill.

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Mews Of Mayfair

    A short walk from Oxford Circus tube, tucked behind shopping chaos is the tranquil Mews of Mayfair. The clientèle appeared to mainly be tourists which is not surprising as the menu design is a marriage of classic familiar dishes (Fish & Chips, Burger, Club Sandwich etc.), alongside more refined sophisticated dishes including Duck Egg, Salt Baked Cotswold Chicken, Superfoods Salad, and rare breed beef.

    The team within Mews of Mayfair were all really lovely, welcoming and engaged in conversation with us both. I find especially in London that service can be almost robotic and cold at times, but the team here were faultless and this was consistent as I observed the service with the other diners.

    To start my friend ordered the Mosaic of Wild Duck & Red Deer- and why wouldn’t you want to order the mosaic to start? Their creative flair continued through to the taste of this well-constructed starter. Essentially a pate paired with a raisin bread, and the flavours in this were superb.

    I chose the Orkney Isles Scallops served with pork belly and artichoke. Again the Mews of Mayfair showcase their expertise in the execution and presentation of this dish. Butter-like scallops served in a shell on top of a rock/seaweed filled bowl it was great to see their presentation going that extra step further. I was really impressed with the scallop and would highly recommend it.

    For the Winter period the restaurant have come up with their take on a Bambi Burger, on the menu as Venison Burger. With this dish only being available til Christmas I went for this and had it cooked medium. Served in a brioche bun with a gin and redcurrant sauce, this really was a good burger. My friend opted for their traditional Mews burger but with added meaty chunks of lobster atop the meat, which was cooked to her liking perfectly.

    With so many new restaurants opening with meat as their headlining dishes it’s important to be able to get a burger right, which the Mews of Mayfair have done so here. There were plenty of caveman flesh in face style grunts from us during eating the burgers. Always a good sign.

    Dessert. Here is where the show was stolen. I would come back here just to have the desserts alone, and I do not have much of a sweet tooth so this is really a big credit to the restaurant. I chose the Chocolate Delice served with honeycomb, yoghurt and hazelnuts. Pow in their presentation and an “oh god” moment with the first mouthful. The Chocolate Delice really is something special. Rich and mousse-like with subtle orange notes and light honeycomb with globes of cream and yoghurt.

    We also had the Roast Williams Pear served with croissant ice cream. The pear was perfection and such a great match with the ice cream- seriously good ice cream, and I should know after many a summer spent in Italy.

    I will definitely be back, not only for the dessert and friendly service, but to next time try something a little more adventurous with their main courses. Portion sizes throughout were good value for money, especially with the desserts (£7.50 most expensive for one) and the food arrived at the exact right amount of time between courses, making this a good venue not just for dinner but lunch (we dined over lunchtime).

    REVIEWED BY: Jordan Lohan
    ADDRESS: 10 Lancashire Court. New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EY
    VENUE PHONE: 0207 518 9388
    WEBSITE: www.mewsofmayfair.com
    RATING: ★★★★ (explained)
    PRICE: ££££ (explained)
    TIPPING POLICY: Discretionary service charge of 12.5% added to bill

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | The Manhattan Grill

    The Manhattan Grill sits very comfortably on the West India Quay of Canary Wharf. This place is brimming with style, but most importantly a talented team who know exactly what they are doing, and you can tell that they love what they do. With head chef, Damian Trejo having cooked for the likes of Barack Obama and the Dalai Lama, the Manhattan Grill provides a star factor at every angle from start to finish.

    Our experience starts in their G&Tea bar where we have a gin tasting session with the lovely Sam. Sam takes us through the tasting and stories of 7 gins where we hear of London’s first distillery, olden porn sellers, and where “Soho” originates from, to name a few.

    Tasting highlights for me were the French Saffron gin, the Monkey47 (a Black Forest German gin sold only in 500ml bottles, giving it the exclusive edge), and the Opihr (a gin where the recipe was based on a spice being taken and infused into the gin from every port on its journey).

    The bar was fairly busy for a Tuesday evening with a mix of cosy couples and booted businessmen. The restaurant was extremely quiet with the majority of tables being taken by solo suited chaps.

    We couldn’t decide what to have for starter so our friendly (and rather good looking, a recurring theme in the staff) offered to have the kitchen do us a tasting platter of the starters. Juicy King prawns in mixed chilli garlic butter, Black pearl scallops with pea puree, Devonshire pork belly, and Baked Blue Swimmer crab cake. So pretty all together on the plate this should feature on their menu as a tasting platter.

    The pork belly was far too salty for me although it was matched with a fruity cabbage- the flesh itself was heaven. The scallop with pea puree was insanely good – if I had to pick just one out of their starters, it would be this. Very closely followed by the crab cake; meaty, light and just the right amount of herbs. I also tried the clam chowder which tasted like a holiday I once had in the U.S – lovely.

    In between courses you are invited to join a sommelier (free of charge), to try some classic wines and some interesting wines from South America, South Africa and Australia. Again, here the Manhattan Grill reinforces that they know their stuff and are going to make you feel special along the way. It also came to light that this company invest in their employees, sending them on courses and trips that are of interest, which clearly adds to the staff’s happy and passionate buzz.

    Following our waiter’s suggestion on his favourite main I went for the Rib-Eye and my friend had the Fillet. The meat was superb and cooked to perfection- I asked for mine to be cooked however the chef wanted me to have the meat and it was a winner. Restaurant’s such as the Manhattan Grill that revolve around one important ingredient, means that it has to be on point. The meat was faultless.

    For sides we had the macaroni cheese (although I wish we had opted for the version they do with lobster), seared mushrooms, and onion rings. I am a sauce monster – gravy, dips, marinades the lot. So I naturally asked to taste a selection of the restaurant’s sauces; Chimichurri, Bearnaise, Bourbon Peppercorn, and red wine. Unfortunately, the sauces were a let down- I found the Chimichurri over oily and the Bearnaise bland. Bourbon Peppercorn saved the day on the sauces and it went particularly well with the Mac N Cheese.

    After both gin and wine tasting, a starter platter and a hunk of meat we decided to share the restaurant’s Key Lime Pie for dessert – light pastry and super citrus filling it was the perfect way to end the meal.

    The experience from start to finish was 5 stars, there is no doubt about that. However I cannot forgive the issue with the sauces and over salted pork I’m afraid, hence a star has been deducted. You will certainly both arrive and leave with a smile on your face, and a slightly bigger belly than when you entered! Both myself and my friend said we would be back to dine and drink again. We had a fantastic time.

    REVIEWED BY: Jordan Lohan
    ADDRESS: 22 Hertsmere Road, Canary Wharf London, E14 4ED
    VENUE PHONE:
    WEBSITE: http://manhattangrill.co.uk
    PRICE: £££ (explained)
    STAR RATING: ★★★★ (explained)
    TIPPING POLICY: Discretionary service charge of 12.5% added to bill

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Arbutus Frith Street Soho (CLOSED)

    Choosing a restaurant in Soho after a couple of gin martinis is like a one-sided game of Battleships. You take aim at the heart-of-London’s gridded streets and often miss, leaving your peg sitting in a tasteless hole. Another evening, another game you fire and it’s bull’s-eye. A peg in a ship suggests a revisit. But what if you’ve hit a piddly patrol boat? Your second hit will sink that tiny ship. It was the competent chef’s shift on your first encounter.

    But every now and then you strike an aircraft carrier that can withstand numerous blows and stay afloat.

    The vessel HRH Lady H and I targeted one finger-numbingly cold January night was christened Arbutus. An aircraft carrier that sails Frith Street. This was my third meal there and she’s still holding her head above water.

    We hiccuped our way through the doors of the one-Michelin-starred gaff, and were greeted by a foxy Marilyn Monroe look-a-like. Marilyn playfully ummed and ahhed, then dangled the eatery’s last table in the air as if it was a toy mouse and we were a pair of mischievous Persian cats. Once she’d made us purr we were led to the table.

    The restaurant is intimate and narrow. The white walls are mostly lined with old black and white photos of city life. One could be sitting in the National Portrait Gallery during a Robert Frank exhibition.

    Lady H’s attention was drawn to the other bums on the banquettes rather than the menu at first. HRH has a penchant for young chaps sporting a crisp white shirt with a subtle hint of Dries Van Noten on their person.

    The frolics didn’t end at reception. Lady H ordered two glasses of Davenport East Sussex bubbly. Our pretty waitress smiled and teased us with the idea of a whole bottle. I dug my Paul Smith calf leather Wallace’s heels in. Deux glasses it was.

    Davenport Limney Estate is as French as us Brits get when it comes to fizz. Much like south-Londoner John Galliano’s final spring/summer collection for Dior.

    Lady began with the Scottish white crab, confit egg yolk, avocado guacamole and brown crabmeat crackers. The ocean fresh crabmeat was mild and sweet. The combination of textures from the runny yolk, crunchy cracker and distinctively strandy crab worked.

    For my entrée shoulder of Elwy Valley lamb and Herefordshire snails ‘lasagne’. The scallop like texture of the snail was slightly overpowered by the lamb. I needed to season this dish. The pea green sauce was about as memorable as the Liberal Democrat’s latest policies.

    To wash down the mains a bottle of The Flower and the Bee (La Folora y la Abeja). Ribena-like with a spicy bite. Utterly drinkable.

    I followed with young Scottish pheasant cooked in hay, with quince jam and cauliflower, with a sausage roll on the side. If the West Cornwall Pasty Company churned out meaty tubes of perfection like this every day I’d be using a different belt loop. The sagey bird came alive with the tart undertones from the jam.

    HRH chose the grilled piece of beef with charred calcot onion, toasted buckwheat and Pomme Anne spuds. I had food-envy slapped across my face like Jordan wears make-up. Your neighbour’s Ford Mondeo is aways shinier. The potato was buttery and rich. A treacly saltiness seeped from this addictive beef.

    To end we shared a selection of cheeses that Borough Market would have been proud of. To accouplement Graham’s 10-year-old port – vibrant, oaky with a nutty bouquet.

    Not as cost effective as eating on the Ark. You’ll need a squadron of Navy officers wages to dine for two on Arbutus’s decks. But she’s worth a hit.