THEGAYUK

Tag: £££

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Texas Joe’s Slow Smoked Meats

    There are now two American style meat serving restaurants named Joe in London – Joe’s Southern Table & Bar and Texas Joe’s Slow Smoked Meats. And while they both share a common first name, Southern Joe’s is all about the deep south with lots of variation on chicken, while Texas Joe’s is all about traditional BBQ meats, done the Texan way.

    Texas Joe’s, located behind London Bridge Station right near the upper end of trendy Bermondsey Street, is like stepping into a wild west saloon. A bit small on the inside – 70 seats (though there are plenty of tables outside if the weather is conducive), Texas Joe’s aim is to bring the spirit of Texas into a very small pocket of London. Does Texas Joe’s succeed? Yes.

    Luckily the menu, which is cleverly printed in the style of a 1936 Texas newspaper named ‘The Big Smoke Signal’ and features articles written by Texas BBQ journalists, is not overwhelming. There are five different types of main courses; beef (brisket or short rib), chicken (wings, thighs or breast), pork (shoulder, belly and ribs), tacos (brisket, mutton or pork) and mutton (shoulder and ribs). What, you might ask, is mutton? It’s similar in texture and flavor to lamb.

    Visiting Texas Joe’s six weeks after it’s opening, me and my dining companion were ready to savour the meats and other Texan-style dishes on the menu, food that I was very familiar with having grown up in New Mexico. I decided to go for the beef brisket, as I am a huge fan, while my companion went for the mutton. We were torn between the excellent variety of sides, but then settled for bone marrow (basically fat nestled into a bone), a house salad, cornbread and brisket chilli. As it was too hot that night to drink alcohol, we ordered the very refreshing root beer and cream soda from new brand Soda Folk.

    My beef brisket was absolutely delicious. There were many larges slices presented on a platter, alongside coleslaw, lots of pickles, and a few slices of bread. The brisket, as you would imagine, was tender and lean while a cup of very mild and not too thick BBQ sauce accompanied it. The coleslaw was a bit too creamy for my taste, however, it had onions which gave it a nice kick. My companion’s mutton was thick, a bit colorless, but nonetheless delicious. Our starters were also very good – the house salad (quite a generous portion for £5), the bone marrow (a bit too lardy and fatty for us), corn bread (deliciously tasting with a hint of jalapeño, just like they make it in the southwest), and the brisket chilli – which was absolutely amazing. Yes it was spicy, but the massive portion given (at £5.50) is almost a meal in itself. So is the Mac & Cheese, which the people next to us were eating. The mains are reasonably priced based on how much meat they give you (most in the £12 to £15 range, though the chicken is no more than £9). The bread served with the meals is a bit unnecessary – cornbread should be served as that would make for a better companion to the food, though perhaps if you want to make a sandwich with the meat, then it’s makes sense. To top it off, we had pecan pie with vanilla ice cream for dessert. The portion was just the right size, it was moist, warm and freshly made. After finishing our dinner, we didn’t feel too stuffed, and we were very satisfied. And compliments go to our waitress Beth. She was very knowledgeable about the menu, knew when we needed something, and was very charming and friendly. Too bad the goes back to school in Manchester in a couple weeks – she’s an asset to the restaurant.

    After your meal, I highly recommend a visit to Joe’s Honky Tonk Bar, located right next door, which serves Texas bourbons and whiskeys, along with Texan Lone Star Lagers and a selection of local beers. And while you are there, pick up a bag of Texas Joe’s Beef Jerky. It comes in two flavors – Low & Slow BBQ and Lean & Mean Beef Jerky. it’s actually the best jerky I’ve ever tasted here in England!

    Texas Joe’s has all the delicious dishes and southern hospitality that you could possibly want, in the central but deceptively discreet surroundings of Bermondsey.
    And make sure you meet the owner Joe, he’ll say a big HOWDY to you all!

    REVIEWED BY: Tim Baros

    ADDRESS: 8-9 Snowfields, London, SE1 3SU

    WEBSITE: http://texas-joes.com

    STAR RATING: ★★★★ (explained)

    COST RATING: £££ (explained)

    TIPPING POLICY: At the customer’s discretion

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Suvlaki Restaurant Review (London)

    “Just a light lunch”, is what we said to each other a few minutes before ordering Suvlaki’s Exuberance menu (£34), which for 2 people consists of two skewers, two mini wraps, four sides, & Greek burgers stuffed with feta. A tempting selection of meaty varieties to choose from to go in your skewers or wraps, including free-range pork sourced from Essex, and wild boar sausage from Greece.

    I simply cannot ignore a boar when it’s on the menu, so a skewer we had of this, which whilst the flavour was really lovely, rich and warmly spiced, I was put off by its tough encasing that reminded me of Frankfurter. For my friend however, the boar sausage was her favourite thing on the platter.

    Now, I kinda wish I hadn’t taken one for team vegetarian by ordering both a skewer and a mini wrap containing the mediterranean style veg. In both, the vegetables were undercooked, whilst the meat we had throughout was perfectly cooked.

    If you’re cooking on a Robata (charcoal style grill- which, by the way, Suvlaki carefully source the charcoal of, to ensure a chemical free and responsibly sourced experience), you’re gonna have to give me some char! The vegetables were barely warm and were oily as they hadn’t been given long enough on the grill. The Chios island mastelo cheese chunks that came on the vegetarian skewer were humongous with a flavour very much like a slightly salty halloumi, but with a softer pillowy texture, and a suspicion of something sweet from their honey mustard glaze.

    The star of the wraps was the actual pita itself, which Suvlaki sources directly from a friend in Athens. Good portion size, warm, soft and chewy in the best kind of way. All of this, girthing something like the silky soft strands of tangy pulled pork we had, made a corker of a combo.

    The greek and lentil salads were very well put together, lightly dressed and really fresh. The beetroot and walnut dip was also tasty to dip a bit o’ pita into. But let me just gush for a moment over the plump, moist meat in the Greek burgers made from pork, lamb, and beef. Beautiful seasoning and spicing using classic garlic and onion, and if you’re not seduced by the first mouthful, then the mouthful where you find the oozy middle of melted feta will have you!

    Suvlaki’s chocolate biscuit cake (£5) does exactly what it says on the tin and provides you with an intense and rich chocolate hit, served with a subtly flavoured coffee ice cream. Definitely one for chocolate lovers.

    If you are a fan of ice cream and gelato, then definitely try their Kaimaki (£4), a buffalo milk Mastiha ice cream which was simply epic. The hint of mint that’s in there tickles on your tongue, and compliments the creaminess to bring about a masterful dessert of flavour and simplicity.

    The tables on the left hand side as you walk in to the restaurant, are not very practical, so opt for the right hand side of the restaurant (the side with comfy seating). Both our forks falling off the table due to over crowding of plates.

    However, dining in the restaurant is not the only way to enjoy Suvlaki, they offer a take away service, and delivery via Deliveroo (Check Suvlaki website for details). We were served by Richard, a lovely looking French chap who didn’t let us want or need for anything, despite having a busy lunchtime restaurant, and appearing to be the only waiting staff on duty.

    Whilst you’ll definitely be sorted for beers to choose from with their selection of Greek microbrewery beverages, those that prefer an extensive wine list may not get on with the limited menu.

    Souvlaki is often served as a type of fast food in Greece, it’s simple, tasty, and cooked well. Suvlaki of Bateman Street, London, channels this entirely.

     

    REVIEWED BY : @Lohanjordan

    ADDRESS: 21 Bateman St, Soho, London, W1D 3AL

    TELEPHONE: 0207 287 6638

    PRICE: £££ (explained)

    STAR: *** (explained)

    TIPPING POLICY / RESERVATIONS / ORDER ONLINE : www.suvlaki.co.uk

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Jamboree Foodfest & Bar

    Opening a burger/foodfest restaurant and bar with a sizeable backroom complete with stage for live music in a space joined onto a Novotel hotel might not seem like the most conventional of pairings.  But Jamboree on Blackfriars Road SE1 is a breath of rainbow-bunting fresh air for the borough of Southwark.

    Don’t be put off by the French, mid-range hotel brand’s corporate exterior.  The building is accessorised with a fun red neon Jamboree sign and their colourful interior can be seen from across the traffic-magnet main road.

    Once inside you’ll feel as though you’ve walked into a London take on a barn dance bar.  High ceilings laden with multicoloured bunting and exposed vintage bulbs, bare wood beams, walls, floor and tables.  A clean spit-without-the-sawdust gaff.  We approve.

    To wet our whistles we were pointed towards these two bad-boys:

    Fire Apple:  Fireball cinnamon whisky, cloudy apple juice, bitters and ginger beer.  It was like pouring an energetic San Francisco Stomp down the gullet where all the participants were hot-footing it in cinnamon-laced cowboy boots.  Not too sweet and plenty of yeehaw from the bitters and ginger.

    Knees Up: Blackwoods gin, basil, lemon, apple and ginger.  A few defuser reeds and this imbibe could easily freshen up the mustiest of rooms.  If TheGayUK owned a five-star luxury spa, the Knees Up would replace the complimentary cucumber water.  An abundance of herby, floral and citrus notes.

    We sampled three burgers, all of which were sandwiched in white, spongy, slightly sweet buns.

    Maryland soft shell crab burger: a sugar-paper texture followed by light fishy candy-esque meat.  Claw-icious.

    Racing Bull Argentina beef burger with chimichurri: succulent, gamey and moreish beef elevated by the parsley, garlic and punches of vinegar from the chimichurri – a burger worth saddling up for.

    The Yucatan veggie burger: a smooth sombrero-sporting falafeley filling with a hint of oregano.  My pulse-and-prune-eating pal polished off the lot, but it’s not for everyone.

    Thursday evenings, Jamboree will be filling their stage with live music.  The bar has been set high after hearing the five-piece band Gatsby – http://www.gatsbyband.co.uk – performing their own takes on Bieber, Bruno Mars and Coldplay – we almost buckaroo-ed out of our chairs and threw our stetsons in the air.

    With cocktails at only £7.95 and a decent burger for £13.95, we suggest you jump on the bandwagon.

    REVIEWED BY: Thabian Sutherland
    ADDRESS: Jamboree London Blackfriars, 46 Blackfriars Road, SE1 8NZ, LONDON
    WEBSITE: https://jamboree.co.uk
    PRICE: £££ (explained)
    RATING:  ★★★★ (explained)

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Del’Aziz Bermondsey Square

    RESTAURANT REVIEW | Del’Aziz Bermondsey Square

    Not every restaurant in the Old Smoke can claim to reside on top of medieval and Roman ruins, an 18th-century burial ground and an Abbey that once rivaled Westminster’s. Del’Aziz is tucked away in the corner of a smart seven-year-old development that was once occupied by Bermondsey Abbey.

    Del’Aziz Bermondsey Square

    Any eatery in proximity to hipster hangout Bermondsey Street has to be worth their weight in black habits. The trendy-Wendy haunt is lined with uber-cool coffee-houses, contemporary cocktail bars, and bustling bistros, most of which have standards as high as St Mary Magdalen church’s steeple.

    You can see why Middle East and Eastern Mediterranean restaurant Del’Aziz have given themselves quite a substantial nip-and-tuck to keep up with the ever-growing destination boulevard.

    Del’Aziz’s boasts a bar, bakery, and restaurant, which is where we were seated.  The dining area is a mix of turquoise walls, an empire-style chandelier in line with boutique five-armed crystal-drop chandeliers, pink, patent, plastic pillars and lime green chairs.  Had we side stepped into a GymBox spin studio or Jane Fonda’s boudoir circa 1983?  An identity is missing.

    We were chuffed the place wasn’t chocker as the tables either side of us would have learnt a thing of two about girthy u-bends.  My dining compadre’s home bathroom refurb was a hot topic.  A wee bit more space between tables would be nice.

    On recommendation, we kicked proceedings off with a couple of mojitos. When the drinkies arrived we were informed not to stir in the dark rum head thus giving us something to look forward to on the last few slurps. Not overpowered by mint, with enough lime to balance the sugar – the rum top worked.

    To get a sense of the full Middle East experience a mezze platter for two seemed appropriate. Hummus – sesame-esque with a good consistency.  Tzatziki – understated and fresh. Lamb boreck – a clear winner on the board – sweet, cumin-laced lamb wrapped in a crisp and oily filo pastry, the best roll we’d had in a while. Meatballs in a tomato sauce – more flavour in a Bic biro lid – bland. And merguez sausages – heavily packed with chili pepper and harissa shadowing the cumin but a decent banger all the same.

    To accompany the main our waiter lead us in the direction of Northern Italy with a bottle of Poderosa Monte Santu Il Vino Del Pane 2010.  Good choice – dry, full-bodied and energetic with light tannin – a chic racy number.

    For our mains: for me, grilled lamb steak, ‘imam bayildi’ aubergines. The steak was beautifully seared and tender. The gamey flavours were enhanced by onions, garlic, and figs permeating from the aubergines. And for my chum, chicken tagine, preserved lemons, carrot confit, olives and steamed couscous. As soon as the terracotta lid was lifted the citrus aromas could have unblocked the nastiest of bunged up honkers. Sadly, that’s where the excitement ended. The olives were limp and the chicken was cumbersome – it was like eating a Korma without the cream – now where’s the fun in that?

    Del’Aziz Bermondsey Square2

    Del’Aziz’s team are polite, chirpy and well suited to the Bermo-contempo borough.

    The bar area lacked any intimate nooks or segregated sections. But what the bar didn’t have in cosy alcoves it made up for in history. You can still see remains of the Benedictine monastery through the glass tiled floor – worth a butchers.

    To choose your pud you have to walk through the restaurant, past the loos, bar, and kitchen to the ‘bakery’ and choose your bake. This did not please my dining chum – the last time he walked past a kitchen was in Kensington Olympia at Grand Designs Live – he knows there’s one in his house because he overheard the chamber maid make reference to a room with an Aga. A pudding menu might well be in order.

    We shared a pink choc meringue and a blueberry crumb cake. The white with pink swirled meringue would have been better suited as headpiece or bulbous fascinator for Sydney Mardi Gras – maybe that’s where it came from? It was as dry as a cracked heel and missing the chocolate. The cake shared the same attributes and not a berry in sight – they must have caught the same flight.

    A meal for two won’t blow all ya spendies, not all the cakes are wearable and hanging with the Bermo-bohems ain’t such a drag.  Let’s just hope that Del’A hasn’t lost her zizzzzzzz.

     

    REVIEWED BY: Thabian Sutherland
    ADDRESS: Del’Aziz, 11 Bermondsey Square, London SE1 3UN
    TELEPHONE: 020 7407 2991
    EMAIL: bermondsey@delaziz.co.uk
    Price Rating: £££ (Explained)
    Star Rating: ★★★ (Explained)
    Tipping Policy: 12.5% discretionary tip will be added to your bill.

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Nipa Thai

    The award-winning restaurant Nipa Thai is situated on the first floor of mid-century icon Lancaster London.

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  • RESTAURANT REVIEW: Zeytin, Traditional Turkish Restaurant, Greenwich

    For a new restaurant on the high street, Zeytin offers a nice splash of Turkish food in a nice setting.  ★★★ (more…)

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW: Las Iguanas in Resorts World Birmingham

    Last night, I travelled to the exotic and vibrant Las Iguanas with high expectations, for I had already been before, and had always had a good time.

    This visit, however, exceeded every expectation I had. It was my friend’s first time, so was great to relive the Las Iguanas experience once more.

    A fiery start was had when we arrived at the bar to understand it was happy hour, slogan of which read: “Create Your Happy Hour”, with a choice of 25 cocktails to mark 25 years of Las Iguanas. With mixologist Kevin’s help, the first hour was a truly happy one, imbibing rum and ginger based cocktails that had some heat kick.
    The happiness ensued as we finished our cocktails (Dark’n’Stormy x2, and a Ginger and Orange Caipirinha) to be escorted by a very friendly front of house member of the team who took us to our table, enthusiastically explaining everything on the menu ensuring we knew what to do.

    The mixture of Latin music and the effervescent energy of the staff contributed to an atmosphere worthy of the tropics. The mood was certainly heightened once Josh, our waiter, had introduced himself and by offering to help us choose some Tapas to try for starters. We took Josh’s recommendations and ordered Gambas (king prawns in garlic, lemon and chillie sauce); Nachos; and Pato Taquito (roasted duck with caramelised onion rolled in a flour tortilla, with a spicy cranberry salsa), all of which only cost £15. The prawns were a sensation with an incendiary edge that lingered warmly on the palate, with a zest that equalled the fire of the chillie. This was my plus-1’s favourite dish of the night, having spooned the remains of the sauce and come close to asking the waiter to doggy-bag the rest. For me, the duck was the winner with tender and meaty chunks, dipped in a cranberry salsa ingeniously corrupted by chillie. After many a dip, I don’t think cranberry and chillie should ever be divorced from each other again!

    Being a returnee, I went for my favourite dish at Las Iguanas which was Marinated strip-steak Fajitas (£15.95), while my guest had the Sea Bass (£13.50). The sound of the steak sizzling was part of the Fajita experience at Las Iguanas, where you can hear it come before you see it. It was accompanied by generous sides (guacamole, soured cream, jalapeños, tomato salsa, cheese) all to go on my warm and soft wheat tortillas. The Sea Bass, according to my friend, was of a rustic nature, appeared and tasted fresh and was as comforting as a stew on a cold winter’ day (appropriate of course!)
    After finishing all our food, I was teased by the dessert menu, but had no room for more; a shame as I would have loved to have tried either the Dulce de Leche Macadamia Cheesecake, or the Aztec Chocolate Fudge Cake, which appeared particularly special with it being made with spiced orange sponge.
    Las Iguanas did itself proud again, with an excellent atmosphere, to-die-for food, and second-to-none service, especially from Kevin and Josh who both went out of their way to satisfy our queries and make us feel at home. We are already talking about the next trip. If you want a hot experience in a wintery season, go to Las Iguanas!

    Reviewed by: Alex Da Silva | @AlexMDaSilva

    Address: Las Iguanas – Ground Floor, Resorts World Birmingham, Pendigo Way, Birmingham, B40 1PU

    Website: http://www.iguanas.co.uk/

    Star Rating: *****

    Cost Rating: £££

    Tipping Policy: An optional 12.5% service charge will be added to your bill.

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, at The Halkin Hotel.

    The restaurant is situated in Belgravia’s Halkin hotel. The Halkin is one of the hotels belonging to the prestigious COMO group (boasting utter gorgeousness globally).
    The “Arzak Instruction” was established by a team of five from Arzak restaurant (who hold three Michelin stars) to deliver the philosophies of a unique and unforgettable cooking style to the Ametsa (currently holding one Michelin star).Rooted in the traditions of ‘New Basque Cuisine’, pairing earthy flavours and techniques of Spain’s Basque region with modern, surprising twists. Fresh, locally-sourced and organic produce from land and sea are Ametsa’s building blocks.
    I really recommend you opt for the tasting menu to sample a little of everything that the creative and flavour geniuses have to offer. The tasting menu (£105 pp / £154pp with wine pairing) will have you and your table ooh-ing, ahh-ing with at every dish and with every mouthful inducing your eyes to roll in the back of your head. This is beyond food porn- harnessing invention, elements of nostalgia, exploration and of course, a bit of drama.
    To start, a little amuse bouche in the form of a tomato and strawberry chilled soup, served in a shot glass- as tempting as it is to down in one from something in a shot glass, please don’t, far too pretty and tasty to be over so quickly.
    The Onion Rock with Marinated Anchovie for me was one of the most visually enchanting dishes, and as an appetizer really does set the tone for the continuing flawless presentation and intricate skill applied to each dish. The “rock” element appearing bizarre in black and tasting like mellow yellow onions, with a coiled anchovie atop soft, silky- exquisite textures against one another.
    The Sunflower Seed Cracker with Duck was something like the finest version of a pate on toast, even the crackers appeared to have some form of architecture to them.
    A little fruity “pasta” parcel containing the Chistorra – a sweet chorizo-type sausage meat was light and mousse-like leaving you with a tangy tongue.
    Scallops at Home- for me this was one of the highlights of the highlights. Served with a seaweed cracker with tiny edible flowers filling its crevices, again the attention to detail is transcendent, and the dish also flashed a nod to the realm of “superfoods” coming with a sweet creamy goji berry sauce. I don’t think a dish has ever made me smile the way that this one did.
    The Langoustine on a Bed of Lichens- for me on paper does not conjour any feelings of excitement, especially as a lichen can also mean a skin ailment. However upon delivery of the dish, the langoustine with only its fleshiest of fleshy part (no ugly whole headed aliens on the plate), served with a perched cracker made with crab looking something like a Philip Treacy hat- sweet & stunning.
    When you book for the tasting menu, your table is likely to receive different plates / menus from one another when you get the fish and meat section. This was great as we really did get to try a bit of everything, and sharing is definitely caring here.

    A little minx of a dish, the seductive and smoky Tuna with Cinnamon arrives in all its pinky handsomeness with a glass dome atop the plate encompassing a cinnamon myst. The dome is lifted and savoury woody aromas surround you. The table is also presented with a smoking cinnamon stick- sensory explosion.

    For my friend dining, her highlight was the Red Emperor with Beans, with the fish (snapper) cooked ridiculously well and an earthy well seasoned white bean sauce. The plate was decorated with more edible flowers, this really was a regal winner.
    The Suckling Pig on Carob Crumbs was a hunky platform of pork with some cracking crackling. An amazing bit of meat, but I did find the dish as a whole far too rich for my palette at this point of the meal. Also I have always had an aversion to anything carob. But as we had been served different meat dishes, it gave us the opportunity to share.
    The Beef Fillet with Green Tomato, was another outstanding dish, the meat served as it should be medium-rare, with a light green tomato mousse encompassing the essence of everything fresh. Its flavour can only be described as clean and green. I’ve never tasted anything quite like it and would have quite happily been served the mousse on it’s own.
    Before we were served dessert, a little delight came along in the form of a shot glass containing flavour elements of sangria (peel, berry etc), with popping candy. Topped up at the table with Sangria you then delve in with a spoon. I really liked this idea, it brought another fun element and also a little nod to childhood via popping candy. My friend didn’t get on with the Sangria shot and within minutes an alternative had been sent out in the form of homemade gelato which was very well received. All your needs are catered for here.
    Clove Custard, Toasted Milk and Pineapple Ice Cream – utterly aromatic and warming flavours making the cooling, light ice cream an intriguing, clever, and undeniably moreish dish. The toasted milk shards (much like a thin wafer) were crisp and reminded me of the chocolate Caramac’s flavour, delicious against the piquant pineapple ice cream.
    The service, much like its food is absolute. A flawless stream of perfectly timed new dishes to the table and topping up / changing of the wines to pair each plate. The service does feel orchestrated, and I have seen others refer to it as robotic. However, the tasting menu is a show and I can only applaud these masters of precision and perfection.
    It’s worth mentioning Ametsa with Arzak Instruction also offer a set lunchtime menu for £27.50.
    Reviewed by @LohanJordanADDRESS: 5-6 Halkin St, London SW1X 7DJPHONE: 020 7333 1234

    PRICE: £££££ (explained)

    STAR RATING: ***** (explained)

    TIPPING POLICY: http://www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa-arzak-instruction/reservations

  • RESTAURANT REVIEWS: The Narrow, Limehouse

    Cussy-Chops’s (Gordon Ramsay’s) hard graft has been decorated with numerous Michelin stars since 1993 – the Gordon Ramsay group currently own 25 restaurants globally.

    For Cussy-Chops, running a nosh-house is much like Karl Lagerfeld designing a red-carpet dazzler – a natural. His top table, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road London, is one of only four eateries in the UK that currently hold three Michelin stars.

    Last month THEGAYUK were invited to sample Ramsay’s culinary fare, minus reality-TV cameras, to see if there is ‘Hell’ in The Narrow Limehouse London’s ‘Kitchen’.

    In 2007 The Narrow’s doors were first flung open, and it’s clear that was the last time the interior received any TLC. She’s neatly situated by the Thames – from the conservatory, your view to the left is the financial hub of London, and to the right, the Shard beams at you in all its phallic glory. Despite this sophisticated location, there’s a feeling that you could be visiting your great-grandma in her residential home – sun-bleached blue sofas and a complete lack of attempt to hide the B&Q-style window frames.

    The gastro pub’s toilets matched the standard of a Wetherspoon’s during the World Cup. Cussy-Chops and his Kitchen Nightmare team should get back on the road and head to Limehouse and address his own flagging decor.

    We were seated in the Nana’s glass-house and offered an apéritif – cocktails seemed appropriate.

    Devil in Disguise: Leblon Cachaca, Green Chartreuse, Martini Bianco, white Cacao and lemon. A slight undercurrent similar to tequila with herby notes. In the description, the Devil boasts: Our creation to expose chocolate and lemon magnificent compatibility – hm. Got the lemon, maybe they overexposed the chocolate. Refreshing all the same.

    Internacional: Bacardi Superior, apricot-infused Martini Rosso and Kümmel. If you could drink a Cuban version of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, this is what it would taste like. An original, heavily-scented imbibe that jabs with potency and flavours of cumin.

    Good service in a Ramsay gaff is like buff, topless bar staff at Ku Bar – totally expected. We weren’t disappointed. NoF Words passed our lips – the staff were knowledgeable and treated us as if we were regulars.

    To oil the food devouring, our waiter chose a bottle of Gouguenheim Valle Escondido Malbec, Mendoza 2014, from Argentina. A deep red, rich and forceful number – aromas of currants chocolate and cherries with a lasting finish. Malbec-n-marvellous.

    To start, from the specials’ board: goat’s cheese and spinach ravioli. Al dente and piping hot – the goat cheese’s strong flavour didn’t overpower but gave a notable presence. Delicious.

    Our other starter: Potted salt beef with apple, pickle and sourdough. Think pastrami minus the pepper. A decent pub potted meat.

    For a Tuesday night, Gordon’s gaff was simmering with locals who’d come straight from the office or schlepped from their Limehouse pied-à-terres, giving the riverside eatery a warm and relaxed atmosphere.

    For our mains: Wye Valley duck breast with port sauce, confit garlic and sautéed potatoes. The duck was succulent and pink in the middle, verging on the sweet side, beautifully mirrored by the rich sauce.

    commendation: the 10oz Aberdeenshire ribeye with peppercorn sauce. Ribeye can be riddled with fat, thus spoiling the consumption. This was a quality cut of beef, tender and without a fat infestation. The sauce was light, not too creamy – the corns liquified on the tongue.

    We shared a couple of sides: creamy spinach and rosemary hand-cut chips. The spinach was fluffy and the chips were crisp, but seemed to have detached themselves from the rosemary.

    Belt loops by pud time were feeling the pressure – but we soldiered on.

    We shared a banana sticky toffee pudding with Purbeck salted caramel ice cream and, from the specials, a vanilla creme brûlée. Our waiter, who had a slight touch of the Robert Downey Jr’s about him, urged us toward said sticky pud – we were jolly pleased he did. The velvety sponge brimmed with banana and flattered the premium south-west ice cream.

    The brûlée slipped off the spoon like gazpacho – it wasn’t set. A good crunch to the head and the vanilla pulled through.

    Finally, a couple of espresso martinis to aid our navigational system for the journey home – more ice-lolly than flat-white – lush.

    Dear Cussy-Chops, take some spondoodles out of your ever-expanding bank account and spruce up The Narrow- one facelift and you’ll have yourself a pretty respectable gastro pub – just sayin.

     

    REVIEWED BY: Thabian Sutherland

    ADDRESS: 44 Narrow Street, London, E14 8DP

    TELEPHONE: +44 (0) 207 592 7950

    EMAIL: thenarrow@gordonramsay.com

    WEBSITE: https://www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/the-narrow/

    RATING: ★★★★ (explained)

    PRICE: ££££ (explained)

    Tipping Policy: A discretionary service charge of 12.5% will be added to your bill.

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Wringer & Mangle

    The Gay UK team are a clean and fastidious bunch, so it seemed perfectly apt we were invited to the opening of a former industrial laundry in the Big Smoke’s hipster hang-out, London Fields.

    We didn’t take our dirty smalls, or our scented-passion-flower-and-ylang-ylang Comfort, or indeed pack our Fairy non-bio washing powder. Twists were for martinis, the only things sodden were the guests’ esophaguses from the plentiful cocktails, and only a few lightweight journos were mangled.

    Award-winning mixologist and restaurateur Gerry Calabrese has eighteen years experience, and a few distinguished names hanging from his washing-line of achievements. Calabrese is the founder of the Hoxton Pony and his new venture Wringer & Mangle (W&M). Gerry launched Hoxton Gin, and has worked with The British Fashion Council, Mulberry, and Bentley – there are no stains on him.

    To enter W&M you walk through a terrace, and past a Moroccan-style den, where lattice fencing, riddled with ivy, sections off an outdoor seating area surrounding a fire pit. Ideal for an aperitif – so we did. Cushions, candles and outdoor heaters will keep you snug as a duvet in a tumble dryer.
    First bevvy of the night, The Bramble Collins: Finlandia Vodka with fresh blackberries, sugar syrup, fresh sage, topped with ginger root and honey soda. Earthy, sweet and bitter, with a twinge of woody-ness from the sage. We washed it down.

    Walking into the main building, you could be fooled into thinking you’d just entered a high-flying artisan New Yorker’s oversized loft apartment. Concrete ceiling, exposed brick, mismatched tables, a few animal skulls and abstract art cakes the walls. All lit by naked Victorian bulbs and copper lighting – there’s something for the fastwashers, you delicates out there, and for those who just wanna rinse, spin and pump-out – W&M will appeal to the bulk of East London dwellers.

    While schmoozing with the trendy-Wendys, happening-hacks and look-at-me-Larrys, canapés were wafted around like incense at a pilgrims’ gathering. Beetroot, goat curd and fig tarts – bland. Mackerel tartar and pickled cucumber – an assertive fishy punch, toned down beautifully by the drunk cucumber – exquisite. Pig’s head terrine and mustard vinaigrette – not too coarse, quality meat, elevated by garlic notes and a grainy sense – yummy.

    Our next tipple, The Pre-Wash Collins: Bombay Sapphire, gin-infused cucumber, topped with cucumber and cardamom foam. Its botanical garden aroma teases you first, followed by the texture of a gingery, bubbly lather – then something sweet and spicy happens – the Hotpoint of the night.
    Once we’d caught a glimpse of Professor Green and could practically smell the Rizzle Kicks, the mains were being dished out by dishy staff.

    Braised lamb shoulder with pearl barley and rosemary – the grain was tender, salty and packed undertones of parsley and onion, complementing the fragrant meat – damn tasty.

    Autumnal vegetable stew – root vegetables were brought to life in this bowl of warmth and goodness – a superb veg stew.

    Smoked haddock chowder – we were just missing a couple of sporrans and some droning highland melodies – almost as good as Glasgow’s finest.
    We’ll definitely be Whirlpool-ing our way back to try their ‘Traditional Roast Sirloin of Beef with all the trimmings’ one Sunday – they’ll be no Wringer-ing out ya purse at only £15 a pop. But they can scrub the phallic communal hand soap in the lavs – we’re not asking for an automatic-washer, just quality washroom hand soap worthy of an old washhouse. We left dry-clean, colour-safe and folded back home nicely – care symbol: regular visits a must.
    Wringer & Mangle

    REVIEWED BY: Thabian Sutherland

    ADDRESS: The Laundry Building, 2-18 Warburton Road, London E8 3FN

    RATING: ★★★★ (explained)

    COST: £££ (explained)
    http://www.wringerandmangle.com

  • RESTAURANT REVIEW | Ember Yard Soho

    Ember Yard Soho is Timeout’s number two destination restaurant at the moment. Chiltern Firehouse is their top-of-the-pops. Leaving the reservation arrangements to the last minute meant THEGAYUK had more chance of interviewing Banksy than securing a table a Chiltern. Ember Yard could squeeze, literally, a table for two in at 9.45pm. Leaving plenty of time for pre-dinner sharpeners.

    A busy gentleman greeted us with beaming pearly whites and led us to the table. It’s a good job neither party was of a large persuasion. We were wedged into a corner table, thus making lav trips a bit like putting ya fave skinnies on after they’ve been washed.

    Our waitress Gabriella appeared at all the appropriate moments, guided us through the menu and suggested all our tapas. Gabriella had an air of landlady about her, she was natural and knowledgeable.

    The venue has a cosy, contemporary loft-apartment feel with dark wooden floors, pillars, beams and grey walls. There’s a mixture of seating, from high stalls and counters to tables, chairs and banquettes. All warmly lit by bulbous exposed light bulbs dangling from pipes on the ceiling.

    The place was full of diners that could no doubt walk, or jump in a rickshaw home.

    We went straight in with vino and opted for the Mas Macia Blanc Catalunya 2014. One word in the description pulled us towards this minerally, ripe-apple-enriched number: honeyed. We should have been shooing bees away once the cork was popped.

    Ember’s cuisine is inspired by Spanish and Italian chargrill methods of cooking. The menu is broken up into bar snacks, tapas and a couple of larger dishes to share.

    Each plate arrived as soon as it was ready.

    First up, burrata with chargrilled ciabatta, heritage tomatoes and wild garlic pesto. Gabriella’s favourite. It was like cutting into a chocolate fondant with a melted centre. The mozzarella outer layer hides a buttery smooth core. A great balance of crunch and creaminess all elevated by a right hook from the pesto.

    Next to appear, applewood-smoked bream carpaccio with pomegranate, coriander and bottarga. The sea bream was slightly overpowered by the salty fish roe and coriander. Zesty, delicate and enjoyable.

    To follow, courgette flower stuffed with goat’s cheese and drizzled with honey. If you’re going to clog your arteries with fried food this is the way to do it. The strong flavour from the cheese lifts the courgette while the honey brings a floral element to the dish. The three amalgamate like a pair of Grenson brogues, a crisp-white Burberry shirt and slim-fit Nudie indigo jeans.

    And then, roasted and chargrilled Ibérico pork ribs with quince glaze and celeriac purée. Once we’d tackled the charcoal, fig-like-flavoured crispy shell the meat slid off of the bone. The textures worked. TGI’s should come and take notes.

    The last dish, smoked and grilled beef burger with pickled courgette, chilli jam and scamorza. Perfectly formed. The chilli jam, or chelly, left a sweet but fiery undertone.

    If you need an excuse not to don ya frilly apron and turn the oven on, Ember’s burrata will suffice. We ordered a second.

    Pud came in liquid form.

    One glass of Finca Antigua Moscatel. The first sip unravels a silky layer over the tongue, followed by a sweet frill.

    And a glass of Lazio Shiraz. A peppery and berry perfumed little tinker. Reminiscent of those cherry-liqueured chocolates you get from M&S at Christmas. But much more palatable.

    The bill was a reasonable £106.16. Chiltern Smiltern. We still had enough in the kitty to swing around a pole at The Village, hit the Shadow Lounge and spill into an Uber home.

    Reviewed by Thabian Sutherland
    Ember Yard
    60 Berwick Street
    London
    W1F 8SU
    Tel: 0207 439 8057
    info@emberyard.co.uk
    http://emberyard.co.uk
    STAR RATING: ★★★★ (explained)
    PRICE: £££ (explained)