“Just a light lunch”, is what we said to each other a few minutes before ordering Suvlaki’s Exuberance menu (£34), which for 2 people consists of two skewers, two mini wraps, four sides, & Greek burgers stuffed with feta. A tempting selection of meaty varieties to choose from to go in your skewers or wraps, including free-range pork sourced from Essex, and wild boar sausage from Greece.
I simply cannot ignore a boar when it’s on the menu, so a skewer we had of this, which whilst the flavour was really lovely, rich and warmly spiced, I was put off by its tough encasing that reminded me of Frankfurter. For my friend however, the boar sausage was her favourite thing on the platter.
Now, I kinda wish I hadn’t taken one for team vegetarian by ordering both a skewer and a mini wrap containing the mediterranean style veg. In both, the vegetables were undercooked, whilst the meat we had throughout was perfectly cooked.
If you’re cooking on a Robata (charcoal style grill- which, by the way, Suvlaki carefully source the charcoal of, to ensure a chemical free and responsibly sourced experience), you’re gonna have to give me some char! The vegetables were barely warm and were oily as they hadn’t been given long enough on the grill. The Chios island mastelo cheese chunks that came on the vegetarian skewer were humongous with a flavour very much like a slightly salty halloumi, but with a softer pillowy texture, and a suspicion of something sweet from their honey mustard glaze.
The star of the wraps was the actual pita itself, which Suvlaki sources directly from a friend in Athens. Good portion size, warm, soft and chewy in the best kind of way. All of this, girthing something like the silky soft strands of tangy pulled pork we had, made a corker of a combo.
The greek and lentil salads were very well put together, lightly dressed and really fresh. The beetroot and walnut dip was also tasty to dip a bit o’ pita into. But let me just gush for a moment over the plump, moist meat in the Greek burgers made from pork, lamb, and beef. Beautiful seasoning and spicing using classic garlic and onion, and if you’re not seduced by the first mouthful, then the mouthful where you find the oozy middle of melted feta will have you!
Suvlaki’s chocolate biscuit cake (£5) does exactly what it says on the tin and provides you with an intense and rich chocolate hit, served with a subtly flavoured coffee ice cream. Definitely one for chocolate lovers.
If you are a fan of ice cream and gelato, then definitely try their Kaimaki (£4), a buffalo milk Mastiha ice cream which was simply epic. The hint of mint that’s in there tickles on your tongue, and compliments the creaminess to bring about a masterful dessert of flavour and simplicity.
The tables on the left hand side as you walk in to the restaurant, are not very practical, so opt for the right hand side of the restaurant (the side with comfy seating). Both our forks falling off the table due to over crowding of plates.
However, dining in the restaurant is not the only way to enjoy Suvlaki, they offer a take away service, and delivery via Deliveroo (Check Suvlaki website for details). We were served by Richard, a lovely looking French chap who didn’t let us want or need for anything, despite having a busy lunchtime restaurant, and appearing to be the only waiting staff on duty.
Whilst you’ll definitely be sorted for beers to choose from with their selection of Greek microbrewery beverages, those that prefer an extensive wine list may not get on with the limited menu.
Souvlaki is often served as a type of fast food in Greece, it’s simple, tasty, and cooked well. Suvlaki of Bateman Street, London, channels this entirely.
REVIEWED BY : @Lohanjordan
ADDRESS: 21 Bateman St, Soho, London, W1D 3AL
TELEPHONE: 0207 287 6638
PRICE: £££ (explained)
STAR: *** (explained)
TIPPING POLICY / RESERVATIONS / ORDER ONLINE : www.suvlaki.co.uk
“Cooking Food Is One Thing… Sharing Food Is Everything” – From sunny Brighton, if you love my work then you’ll love my new book ‘Food For Friends’ – Available for Apple, Android and Kindle devises from TheGayShop.co.uk – Enjoy.