It’s Anthony’s 50th birthday, a fact that Jane discovers when she finds her mother Philomena crying over an old photograph.
Anthony is the son that she had out of wedlock as a teenager in Ireland and who was forcibly taken by nuns and given away for adoption. It’s a tale that she has kept to herself for all these years but she can longer hold back on wanting to know whatever became of him.
A chance meeting leads Jane to Martin Sixsmith a former BBC journalist who just had to resign as a government spin doctor over a scandal and was now at a loose end. As an ex-foreign correspondent used to loftier matters he initially resisted the approach to investigate Philomena’s story as he considered human interest pieces beneath him. But he did reluctantly take on the project even though he initially had a great deal of difficulty adapting to Philomena and her world. She was still a devout Catholic, and a retired nurse with very simple tastes, plainly spoken and completely unworldly. And he was ex Oxbridge & Harvard, having spent years as the BBC’s correspondent in Moscow & Washington and was urbane, sophisticated and very sarcastic.
They started by taking a trip together back to the convent in Ireland where the baby had been born. Philomena still believed that the nuns would help her in her search even though all those years ago they had been prepared to let her die as a penance for her sins when it was a difficult breach birth. However, they drew a blank as the nuns claimed that all the papers relating to all the babies born there had been burned in a fire long ago. But later at the local pub where they were lodging, Martin learned that the nuns had burned all the evidence because they had actually been selling all the babies off to wealthy families in the USA.
Now that he senses that there is a real story to tell, he gets a contract with a magazine that will finance the next part of their search which will mean them both of flying to Washington D.C. to investigate any leads they can get from adoption agencies on immigration officials to find Anthony. Finding the son who was given away turned out to easier than even the intrepid journalist believed. However not only was it not the outcome that either of them had wished for, but it was what they also discovered about themselves as a result that had a profound effect on them both.
Director Stephen Frears (The Queen, High Fidelity) is so back on form with this wonderful new movie after his last three misfires. Based on a true story written by Martin Sixsmith …. and with a script co-written by Steve Coogan, who plays Martin in the movie … it’s a harrowing heartbreaking tale that fills one with so many emotions. In fairness, it starts out slowly, but once Philomena hits her stride and you begin to realise that this is far from a predictable birth-mother and child reunion story, that you start to choke up … and get angry too.
Dame Judi Dench reunited with Mr Frears (Mrs Henderson Presents) is flawless as Philomena, who she reveals has this wonderful sense of wicked humour, and on certain matters is a lot more worldly than we ever expected. Her rigid belief in her faith regardless of all the evil she uncovers is both remarkable and totally convincing, albeit hard to approve off. Despite all that she went through, she asks for very little ….’I’d just like to know what he thought of me, I have thought about him every day’. And she does at least get that. It is a breath-taking performance.
Steve Coogan plays Sixsmith rather drolly as a total non-believer and in the investigation itself is the ‘bad cop’ to her ‘good cop’ role. He and Philomena hold different views on almost everything, but as the search moves closer to its conclusion they develop a close bond together and a deep respect for each other.
This movie will probably end up on my year’s Best Movie List … I think it best to go into this movie knowing no more of the plot than what I have revealed here, but there is a very specific reason why all readers of thegayuk.com will so relate too it. Although I should perhaps share that you will more than one pack of kleenex handy, and also if you had a low opinion of the morals of Catholic nuns before this, you will discover that they are even more despicable evil than that. Urgh!
I don’t quite know how to type the opening lyrics for Tight Fits “The Lion Sleeps Tonight” but shhh now please, there is a lion sleeping on my driveway. It’s the Peugeot 208 GTi Sport. If it wasn’t so bullish you could call it a lion cub because of its size. Driving it however releases the animal within.
I’ll stop with the lion references now and I’ll ruin the wait for the star rating at the end because it gets Five from me. Six if I could. It’s not a great car though so don’t be fooled into thinking it is. What you get for a mere £22,595 is an uncompromised hot hatch.
There are no toys in this car. You can’t decide how you want to set the stiffness of the suspension. Peugeot’s sports division have done that for you while also lowering it 10mm over the original GTi and changing the wheel alignments. They have also given you the torsen differential. To you and me that means limited slip. All this makes for a car with go-kart like handling with almost no body roll. The ride is jarringly firm on potted streets. On main roads it’s quite liveable.
On the inside you get the usual aircon, airbags, radio with DAB and cruise control but the satnav is a £450 extra. It is needed. The infotainment system is a tad sparse without it. That said you do get a calculator within it. It’s so random I thought it worthy of a mention. What you do get for your money though are 2 delightful bucket seats that both feel great and do their job. What these do however is turn the rear seat into nothing more than a padded parcel shelf. With the 208 being how it is anyway I doubt you’ll get a queue of friends eager to sit in the back anyway.
Unlike the 207 that this replaced, it feels smaller. It looks smaller. Peugeot have always made the prettiest small cars. While the 207 was a huge mistake with no redeeming features, they have got this one right. Some of the trim and finish is a bit low rent. The paint within the boot shut looks unfinished. At first I thought the parcel shelf cheap by the way it’s been executed but. Simplicity in itself.
I have kidded myself that this and some of the switch gears look very similar to those used on Peugeot cars from over 10 years ago – is because the engineers have been busy spending money on the more fundamentals. I was right.
Sitting behind the small leather bound steering wheel your eyes are directed to the the outside world and just below that the facia panel. For some reason it all sits above the line of the wheel. You then notice that the wheel in your hand is incredibly small. It all works so beautifully. Nice little touches of red stitching throughout and the red lights around the 2 contoured clocks are a really nice touch. You can switch them off if you like but you won’t. It becomes very intimate.
Driving it is the fun part. It is also the reason why you would buy this model. In no way does it feel that “Health and Safety” have been involved with the development. It has a simple key to start the eager 208bhp engine. You don’t even need to press the clutch pedal to start it. Everything you do is by your choice. The 208 makes you accountable for your actions and this is what makes it such a breath of fresh air. You can even do left foot breaking. This is a car for the action man.
It is its eagerness that overwhelms your senses. A 0-60mph time of 6.5 seconds is ridiculously rapid. The Torsen diff helping put all that power down without much fuss or wheel spin. Care should be taken when pulling out of a junction either left or right. Its tendency to dart away in your chosen direction is both exhilarating and addictive. Too addictive if I am honest. Those Michelin tyres won’t last long.
To hell with the cost of the tyres though. The go-kart like handling is secure at higher than normal speeds though you will tend to cruise 40mph corners you’ve taken before at 60mph. Only then do you realise the potential that this car has. And that 205 GTi trait of lift-off-oversteer very much remains. Thankfully it is much more secure and manageable. Many 205 owners will tell you about the days they ended up facing the wrong way or worse, in a ditch. If however, at any point, you think your pants are going brown, the 4 disc brake set up with scrub off speed with alarmingly little fuss.
The power pack in the 208 is a superb piece of engine. All the power of 208 horses comes in at 6000rpm while 300Nm of torque are there from only 3000rpm. This is puzzling because it does feel nearer 4000rpm when on the move. Change down a gear and then you find it at 3000rpm. The 6 speed gearbox has ratios that require chopping and changing. The throw of the gear shift is way to long in throw though. I’m sure a short throw shift could reduce the 0-60 time by 1/2 a second. It would also add to the already adrenaline fuelled eagerness.
What was annoying was the boom from the exhaust at low revs and at 3000rpm on the motorway. The 208 suggests a gear on the screen and should you wish to get optimal fuel economy it might make sense. Ignore it, take it up another 500 rpm from the 1900rpm when it suggests and you will enjoy the exhaust note. Or keep it in 5th gear until you really need sixth and the boom vanishes but the fun and snappy throttle responses remains.
I want one. I don’t think I would tire of it with its hard ride either. In this stripped down form it does what a car should do and that is allow YOU to drive it by human thought and not the computer. I almost forgot, it returns pretty good fuel economy too.
Likes
Price
Very intimate
No frills just thrills
Loathes
Some finishing details are poor
Long throw of gear stick
Boom from exhaust at low revs
The Lowdown
Car – Peugeot 208 GTi Peugeot Sport edition
Price – £22,595 (as tested)
MPG – 35.3mpg (combined)
Power – 208 bhp 6000 rpm
0-62mph – 6.5 seconds
Top Speed – 143 mph
Co2 – 125 (g/km)
The Above the Stag Theatre is now presenting the new musical ‘The Sins of Jack Saul.’ Well who is Jack Saul you might ask?
Jack Saul was a male prostitute in London who went by the name ‘Dublin Jack,’ because he was from Dublin. He left for London at the age of 22 and wasn’t sure what to find there. He eventually fell into prostitution and was involved in two major homosexual scandals. For it being the late 1800s, homosexuality was scandalous and even criminal behaviour.
But what made Jack Saul famous (or infamous if you will) was his involvement with a lieutenant in the Irish army, and working in a male brothel in London – at 19 Cleveland Street (which in itself was a musical at the Stag called ‘Cleveland Street – The Musical‘) . So ‘The Sins of Jack Saul’ tell his interesting and scandalous life through song and a bit of dance, and a helpful narration by the devil (provided by the handsome yet evil looking Michael Gonsalves).
It’s a typical production for Above the Stag, and through this production we get to learn who Saul is and what were his sins.
‘The Sins of Jack Saul’ is based on the book ’The Sins of Jack Saul – the True Story of Dublin Jack and The Cleveland Street Scandal’ by Scottish playwright Glenn Chandler.
Saul is played by Jack McCann, who is very good and believable. We get to relive his life, his life back home in Ireland with his mother (Felicity Duncan, who also plays other roles, including a French Prostitute) and his disapproving brother (Ciaran Bowling – who also geniously plays Lieutenant KIrwan – the army officer Saul gets involved with).
We see Saul become an in-demand call boy – sleeping with very important people, including Lord Euston (David Mullen), a relationship that would eventually be the catalyst for the downfall of the brothel, and for Jack. ‘The Sins of Jack Saul’ is set to music, with appropriate songs to match the plot (‘I Always Wanted a Man in Uniform’ and ‘Pornography’) being a couple of the standouts.
‘The Sins of Jack Saul’ is a satirical romp through the eyes of one of London’s most notorious rent boys.
The Sins Of Jack Saul plays at Above The Stag until 12 th June 2016
Alice and Michael are soaking wet and alone in a field by a river at night. Alice can’t remember what bought them there and wants to go home. The problem is that Alice can’t go back again and the big question is what bought them to this point.
CREDIT: Alex Harvey-Brown
Liam Borrett’s exploration of grief and loss is very impressive. The real achievement isn’t the story itself or the dissection of the aftermath of tragedy but in the characterisation. Alice and Michael are a couple in their late twenties, married with a young daughter. You almost certainly know them. Alice is outspoken, wilful and brimming with unrealised ambition. Michael is a little gauche and awkward and completely in awe of Alice. Michael Socha (E4’s Aliens, This Is England, Being Human) and Tamla Kari (The Inbetweener’s Movie, The Musketeers) are remarkably good and both give robust and forceful performances.
We see their lives together through a series of potent and cleverly inter-cut flashbacks: their clumsy first meeting on a bus via drunken nights and bad dancing after a lot of Echo Falls, through to the news that Alice is carrying the baby that Michael so desperately wanted. The beauty of the characters is how familiar and ordinary they feel and the celebration of how seemingly ordinary people have extraordinary traits and fascinating stories within the routine of daily life. Sarah Beaton’s waterlogged set leaves the viewer feeling cold and damp and clever sound and lighting design allows for the brisk flow back and forth between past and present.
The play has a lot of funny moments and Kari’s depiction of Alice’s seemingly brash Northern charm complements Socha’s devastating but understated portrayal of Michael’s ungainliness. The script is tight with a few minor slack moments. The painful subject matter is depicted with charm and grace and rarely feels unbearable but is still devastating and painful to watch.
The play seemed to initially lose focus slightly after the interval but soon regained the mood and may perhaps have been carried better as a one-act piece. Nevertheless, this is an incredibly powerful piece of theatre and a chance to see two very talented actors realise the potential of a beautiful script. This is also Socha’s West End debut. He stated in a recent interview that he was feeling nervous. He needn’t have worried.
In an adaptation of Charlotte Bronte’s iconic novel, Jane Eyre is an orphan who is treated cruelly by her Aunt and sent to an institute for young girls. From there, she moves to work at Thornfield Manor as a governess and swiftly falls in love with her employer, Mr Rochester. But the Manor House harbours dark secrets, and as their love grows, Jane’s independence and fiery temperament surfaces as those secrets are revealed.
Trying to cram the complex and multi-layered classic novel into a 100 minute ballet was always going to be a difficult challenge, and one which choreographer Cathy Marson takes on with confidence. The staging of the ballet itself is inventive, with the use of curtains which are moved and positioned across the stage to effectively and cleverly convey both the confines of Thornfield Manor House and the sweeping moors.
At times the choreography was beautifully done, leaning far more towards the contemporary rather than the traditional, with a lot of delicate lifts, floor work and precise movement, contrasting moments of tender intimacy with complex ensemble pieces. Both Dreda Blow and Javier Torres’ performances were more than noteworthy and displayed their professional competence; whilst overall, the supporting company’s movements were of their usual high quality.
Whilst the technical excellence of the company meant foot sure and stumble-free performances, the production did falter slightly over the issues of narrative and characterisation. The novel itself portrays so many aspects of Jane’s life, and the ballet hits most of the significant events, but with so much to cover within so little time, the narrative felt rushed, superficial and unclear; whereas the characterisations were not as clearly defined as one would hope, leading to further confusion.
Overall, adapting Jaye Eyre is a huge task and one which is beautifully staged and performed, but the juxtaposition of the contemporary dance and the period setting, coupled with the rushed narrative amounts to a production which is enjoyable, but doesn’t quite come together to be more than the sum of its parts.
Jane Eyre had its world premiere at CAST Theatre, Doncaster; who hosts a varied range of performances. Visit their website at www.castindoncaster.com for full details. Northern Ballet is currently touring Jane Eyre, with productions of 1984, Romeo & Juliet, Wuthering Heights and Beauty and the Beast to follow later on this year. Visit www.northernballet.com for details.
April 2016 marked a huge milestone for the new gay beach festival called TropOut, which debuted on the island of Phuket is southern Thailand. The event was masterminded by founder Aaron Zoanetti after finding a lack of diverse travel experiences designed with LGBT people in mind.
CREDIT: Two Bad Tourists
Feeling comfortable in a new destination as an LGBT traveler is always an issue particularly for gay friends or couples traveling together. So with that goal in mind, Thailand was not surprisingly selected as the location for the first event. I attended the festival from April 3rd through 9th and was amazed by what came together.
This wasn’t my first trip to Thailand but it was certainty my favourite. Having not been in Asia for nearly four years I had almost forgotten the attention to service and detail that one experiences and Thailand is no exception. I flew from London Heathrow via Bangkok to Phuket and was lucky enough to get an upgrade to business class. Somehow beyond my comprehension Thai Airways’ A380, the largest passenger aircraft on the planet, manages to transport more than 500 people on a single plane to the Thai capital in just under 12 hours. The ride was incredibly comfortable in fantastic lie-flat seats making the journey one I almost didn’t want to end. Still, my destination was Phuket and I had one last quick flight to catch in Bangkok before arriving.
CREDIT: Thai Airways / Two Bad Tourists
Having traveled from London the day before, the hot and humid air hit my face suddenly. I wasn’t sure what was in store but I was pleasantly surprised to have already met four attendees at the airport and we shared a quick 20 minute transfer to the hotel. Some 30 minutes south of the bustling area of Patong sits the Laguna Phuket complex made up by several separate resorts. TropOut coordinated with two properties specifically to host guests depending on budget and the amenities they were looking for. The 4-star Cassia is brand new, trendy and hip and hosted most guests on the trip creating a hub where guests could meet and socialize throughout the week. Those wishing for a bit more luxury opted for the 5-star Angsana Resort just a five minute boat or bus ride away. I stayed all six nights at the Angansa Resort complete with numerous pools, bars and restaurants, indoor and outdoor activities and most importantly, a private beach and fabulous beach club just minutes away from my room.
I wondered why Zoanetti was so motivated having spent the last year organizing for this event , but within less than a day his vision unraveled before my eyes. TropOut is exactly what most large gay festivals are not. The fact of the matter is that gay circuit parties have for years (and even decades) been a motivation for people to travel to an exotic destination. The likes of XLSIOR Mykonos, Circuit Barcelona and The White Party in Palm Springs may be successful events, but for some they leave something to be desired. Sure, TropOut understands that people love a good party. After all, their simple yet effective slogan Chill, Party and Explore makes clear the goal of the event. In fact, everyday of the program included a social gathering including a pool party, white party, a night out in Patong’s gay Paradise Complex, not to mention the opening party headlined by famous DJ Robin Schulz at Angsana’s Xana Beach Club.
CREDIT: Two Bad Tourists
But even as the parties went on, TropOut did not lose sight of what they think is an important part of travel, which promotes experiencing the local scene, gastronomy, culture and natural landscapes of the destination. This is why more than half of the attendees booked an excursion like a Thai cooking class, Phuket city tour or one of two stunning boat tours to either Kho Phi Phi Islands or Phang Nga Bay. Not only were these excursions enjoyable for the guests but they provided an extra social atmosphere within the group beyond the daily parties and gatherings.
The agenda was meticulously created but not in such detail that guests lost freedom. There was plenty of time for people to chill and relax by the beach or even sleep in through the afternoon for those that stayed out partying late the night before. But perhaps the most memorable part of the experience were the friendships that were created. Just as Aaron explained to me some months ago, the vision of TropOut was to create a more sophisticated gay travel experience with like-minded people. And the truth is that within just a couple days I had already formed friendships with people that I’m excited to meet again on future trips or maybe even the next TropOut event.
CREDIT: Two Bad Tourists
And as luck has it, the TropOut team announced the dates and location for the next festival, which is already in the works. If you’ve ever dreamt of visiting the South Pacific this might be the perfect opportunity. From May 6 to 13 of 2017 the island of New Caledonia will host the next version of TropOut. Situated between Australia and Fiji and just a two hour’s flight from Brisbane, next year’s event in the beautiful French Overseas Territory is sure not to disappoint.
One of the things you’ll find if you’re staying in Manhattan is that hotel rooms come in two sizes. Small and extra small – that is unless you’re staying at the Hilton near Times Square.
Some may argue that the location is too conventional and too safe and that the “real” New York happens several blocks away, but if you’re a Big Apple novice and you’re looking for a friendly place in a city of over 8 million people, the Hilton is a perfect choice.
Nutshell – The third pure Captain film asks the basic question are you Team Captain or Team Iron Man. Half of Marvel’s finest decide, after a recent accident, that they should be governed and regulated whilst the other half think they should remain free agents. Old favourites return, new heroes are introduced and all hell breaks loose in the many action scenes leading up to the ultimate Superhero showdown of all time.
Time – 147 mins; Certificate – 12A
Tagline – ‘Whose Side Are You On’.
THE GAY UK FACTOR – Are you serious ? More hot men in Spandex than you will see in a whole season of the Tour De France. Our favourite Chris Evans who plays the lead is just a great horny looking guy that draws your eye from all the other hunk talent on show and he has an ass to die for plus great biceps in close up in the key helicopter sequence.
Cast – Captain America/Chris Evans, Iron Man/Robert Downey Jnr, Scarlett Johansson/Black Widow, Paul Rudd/AntMan, Tom Holland/Spiderman, Jeremy Renner/ Hawkey, Paul Bettany/Vision plus William Hurt, Marisa Tomei and Martin Freeman.
Key Player – Falcon comes off best he just swoops around disposing of the bad guys with pure cool and he has a mega-cool drone called Redwing which in the comics was a real (Falcon) bird.
Budget – No surprise that this cost a lot – $250 million. This is of course safe territory it covered its costs in just six days. It is now heading for the top after chart toppers of 2016, Zootopia and The Jungle Book to become the biggest movie of the year, we guess it will finish up making about $800 million.
Best Bit – 1.30 mins; The two team-ups have been building for a while but when they finally come face to face in a German airport you get the best scene of the year so far.
Worst Bit – 1.35 mins; It is not bad just an obvious plot twist so that the tiny Ant Man can pull his weight fighting other superheroes equally it seems shoehorned in to even the teams-up.
Little Secret – This is the longest ever Marvel film and the 13th in the studio’s master plan. Chris Evans suffered a severe arm injury in the helicopter sequence but the close up muscles are all him with no photo shop whatsoever on his massive wanking arm.
Movie Mistake – In the final fight Iron Man’s helmet keeps appearing and disappearing similar to the windscreen that Captain smashes in the big vehicle chase.
Awards – Nothing between now and October is going for awards this is going for cash and lots of it.
Further Viewing –Captain America 1 & 2,Avengers 1 & 2, Spiderman’s 1 through 3, Ant Man, Thor, 8 Batmans, 7 Supermans and maybe a few more superhero films for good measure.
Any Good – Abso-damn-lutely. This is real boys own stuff and maybe the best Marvel film yet. This is well plotted with endless superb action a great cast, funny lines and a script Christopher Nolan would be proud of. See in IMAX or 3D if possible.
Rating – 7/100 (7th out of the last 100 films reviewed with 1 being best and 100 being a damn squib).
★★★★★ Matthew Bourne’s Sleeping Beauty | In a reworking of the classic fairy tale, Princess Aurora is cursed by the dark fairy, Carabosse, to die after pricking her finger on a rose on her 21st birthday. But after Carabosse dies in exile, her son Caradoc vows to avenge his mother and fulfil her curse. But things don’t go according to plan and instead, Aurora falls into a deep sleep for 100 years, meaning that is down to Leo, the royal groundskeeper and Aurora’s true love, and Count Lilac, King of the Fairies, to save her; in this gothic, romantic, love story that transcends the centuries.
Photo Credit: Johan Persson
Bourne is known for placing a contemporary spin on a classic ballet score, having already taken on two of Tchaikovsky’s greatest, The Nutcracker and Swan Lake with great success; and he completes his trilogy with Sleeping Beauty, setting a fresh take on the story to the time honoured traditional score, with an elegant production.
Bourne delivers some intricate and masterful choreography that veers between the playful, the romantic and the dramatic; as he floods the stage with waves of movement to completely mesmerise the audience, clearly define the characters and progress the narrative. Where he really succeeds is the pacing of the piece, as it opens strongly and keeps building and building, with each set piece seemingly bettering the one before.
The cast were universally outstanding, with Ashley Shaw demonstrating a natural grace and skill with her portrayal of Princess Aurora. Chris Trenfield was delightfully charismatic and alluring as Leo and Adam Maskell revelled in his deliciously dark dual roles as both Carabosse and Caradoc, roles which he has clearly now defined. But equally, there was very little to separate out the remaining ensemble whose technical skill, timing, precision and uniformity was impeccable, from their delicate and intricate movements to their facial expressions.
From the jolting opening scene with its booming thunder to the thrilling final act (which I shall not spoil), Sleeping Beauty is a sumptuous production with an overlay of vampirism, gothic beauty and visuals which enchant and enthral. In a show which oozes quality from every aspect, in terms of set, costume, lighting, direction, performance and visuals, it amount to two hours of simply breath-taking, flawless and unforgettable theatre.
Sleeping Beauty is currently at Sheffield Theatres until 21st May 2016 (www.sheffieldtheatres.co.uk). Matthew Bourne’s New Adventures have recently announced Matthew Bourne’s new production, The Red Shoes, which will have its world premiere in Plymouth in November 2016 and which is to tour nationwide in 2016/17. Visit www.new-adventures.net/ for details.
A book about gay and lesbian history could easily be a dark and painful read. It would be a huge understatement to say that the LGBT community haven’t had an easy ride throughout world history and a retrospective of people’s stories could be depressing and bleak.
Robert Aldrich, a professor of European History, has, however, managed to produce a compendium of a selection of fascinating life stories that is often inspirational and joyful to read.
The book is beautifully presented with paintings, drawings and reproduced archival documents. Aldrich has chosen key figures from history including figures from the art, politics and literature amongst many others.
The range is comprehensive and sometimes surprising. The figures described range from the ancient world to the twentieth century and from the well-known to the more obscure. Each chosen historical figure gets a short but comprehensive and well-written chapter. Aldrich outlines the stories of over 80 figures in 289 pages.
There’s such a wide range of people in the book from the expected and well-known (Frederick the Great, Harvey Milk and Michelangelo) to the less well documented (the first man to be burned at the stake for sodomy, for example).
It’s not a book that is easy to sit and read cover to cover but one that you’re more likely to dip in and out of.
Depending on your interests then some of the sections will vie for your attentions more than others but Aldrich’s skill is to make each story feel relevant and a part of the rich history of gay and lesbian culture. This is a must read for any LGBT person.
Nice, France – February: Each year, for the entire month of February, Nice on the French Riviera is overtaken with celebrations of the Carnaval.
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
This year, due to recent events in Paris, the festival was reduced to two and a half weeks. At the heart of the festival, is the King and Queen of Carnival, two massive floats that sit in the city centre presiding over each and every day of the Carnival, while the city celebrates with flower parades, parades of light and the very first Queernaval in France, until the final day, when the king is towed out to sea and burned.
CREDIT: Aaron HollowayCREDIT: Aaron Holloway
The weekend I visited Nice, the sun was shining brightly and the city was warm. Upon arriving at the simply stunning Ellington Hotel a short walking distance from the centre of the Nice old town, I was taken immediately by the old-world charm of the hotel. The interior is decorated with deep colours reminiscent of 19th century French design. The colours are deep and the light fittings opulent. My suite looked out over the street and the king sized bed was so deliciously soft that I nearly fell asleep right there after my flight down from Bremen.
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
However, the days were perfect to wander the streets and explore the little hidden secrets of the Nice old town. While the main parts of the city are easy to find, from the main market square in the old town, right next to Matisse’s old home, along the main shopping area, filled with adorable little shops and cafes, restaurants and bars, up to Place Garibaldi, named after the Nicoise politician who is considered one of the fathers of unified Italy, despite Nice eventually becoming part of France in the 1800’s.
The traditional Nicoise style and architecture is still apparent in the old town, with tall closely huddled buildings in terracotta, yellows and pale pinks lining the streets, often with traditionally green shutters. The street signs are also given in the traditional Nicoise names, as well as the new French names. Sometimes these are simple translations, but other times, the names are entirely different.
If you take a moment to walk away from the crowds, and through the back streets, you get to see a completely different part of the city. The hustle and bustle of the crowds dies away and the streets seem quiet. Looking up, you can see people’s washing hanging from the lines outside windows, it really feels as though you have been pulled backwards through time and the modern world isn’t important. The most interesting thing about these back streets, is that for the most part, there really isn’t anything to do. There are no café’s hidden away, no little secret stores. These are the houses of the people who live in the old town, or the backs of the stores that can be found in the other streets. If you take the right streets, perhaps with the help of Google Maps, you can wander your way through the back streets and find the memorial to Nice’s very own ‘Joan of Arc’ character, Catarina Ségurana who led the army to fight back an invasion attempt by the French king and his Ottoman allies in 1543. Wander further and you’ll find the back steps up to where the Nice castle used to stand, looking out over the city, until Louis the 14th had it dismantled block by block after taking it by siege. The view is incredible over the entire city of Nice, across the Med towards the airport and beyond, and back towards the alps that the city nestles itself against.
Aside from exploring the town, there is another great reason to visit Nice during Carnival, and that is: the parties. Particularly, Lou Queernaval. Organised by the same people who manage the LGBT organisation and the Nice Pride parade, Queernaval is the first LGBT Carnival in France, and this year, returned for a triumphant second year of celebrations. The streets were jam packed with people, both gay and straight, celebrating queer culture in Nice and the surrounding areas. The parade took place in Messina Square, in the heart of the city, between the old and new towns. People packed the stadium seating, and crammed in around the floats on the road, dressed in all manner of costumes and outrageous outfits to celebrate the event.
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
On the day of the big event we stopped for lunch at the long-time family owned Acciardo restaurant where we were served by the younger generation of the family a delightful pair who served us an incredible selection of traditional nicoise food: a gnocchi made from Shard, a particularly traditional ingredient for Nice, Daube a slow cooked beef stew served with ravioli – a particularly incredible, but heavy dish, alongside nicoise salad and traditional entrées. I honestly have not eaten so much food in a long time, followed by a lemon meringue tart which we had to share, simply because we couldn’t eat a whole one. It was a good thing we had plenty of errands to run in the afternoon, including getting some spiffing costumes to wear to the parade. I decided along with two others who I joined at the festival, to go as French noblemen. I was ‘The Old Comte De Plonge’, joined by Monsignor La Vache, and The Comte de Frou Frou (thanks French & Saunders for the names!)
For dinner we were treated to some more local cuisine at the L’Empire restaurant. Succulent legs of chicken resting on beds of potato salad with a rich mushroom sauce, and fluffy chocolate sponge cake which was just to die for. There is one thing for sure, if you visit Nice, you won’t go hungry, and you won’t be starved for choices.
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
We quickly moved on to the Queernaval to see the show begin, and it did not disappoint. The event was hosted by the fabulously dressed Erwan, complete with a massive pair of feather wings. He was joined at the celebrations by local bands, local dancing troupes, a sea of drag queens and dancers and Manuel Blanche, a simply stunning DJ from Paris. The party began with a bang and went on until midnight when it moved to local bar Glam to continue well into the night.
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
The next morning, we met our group after breakfast and walked into town to make a short tour of the old town and the daily market that happens in the square. The market is different every day, but on the weekend it is local flowers, spices, herbs and other foods. Among the stores in the old town there is a store with traditional sweets from Nice made from sugared flowers and candied fruits. Definitely something worth trying while you are visiting Nice.
Through the old town which, like most old towns, is a mess of winding streets containing various stores of locally made produce, pottery, food, gifts and souvenirs. At the end of the plaza is the house that Henri Matisse lived in while he was in Nice. The house is still in use as a house, and there is a Matisse museum a short bus ride out of the main city area. It’s worth taking a few hours to explore the streets, and to wander away from the main shopping streets and discovering the quiet streets where there are less tourists, a more traditional look to the old town, with coloured buildings and shutters, washing hanging across the street 4-floors up. There are hidden treasures around the town, with things such as two holes in a wall where two cannonballs struck the wall during a failed invasion by the French and Turkish forces.
CREDIT: Aaron HollowayCREDIT: Aaron Holloway
Our afternoon was filled by a visit to the festival of flowers, a parade of locally-grown flowers and colourful floats and giant floating ‘things’. The street parade runs several times during the weeks of Carnaval in the mid-afternoon along the Avenue de Americas on Nice’s beachfront.
CReDIT: Aaron Holloway
Just a few minutes walk along the Avenue de Americas is the Nice Castle Mont. While the castle is no longer on the top of the hill, after being dismantled by the King of France after finally capturing the city after a long siege, there is a park and lookout from which you can see far into the Mediterranean and beyond the mountains behind Nice. The long walk up the steps is worth it once you get to the top and can enjoy the view. There’s even a back-passage you can take down the mountain that drops you at the back of the old town along the main shopping street.
The main event for the Carnaval is the Carnaval parade on Saturday night. When this parade gets going the king and queen, two massive floats with moving parts are joined by a large number of other floats made by local artisans to a theme, this year’s theme was the King of the Media, and along with music and dancers and performers they drive around Messina Square for a couple of hours. The French floats are certainly not shy in pressing the controversial issues, covering ideas of kids consumed by phones and television, politicians being caught with strippers and Chinese and North Korean censorship issues.
CREDIT: Aaron Holloway
Les Garcons: Gay restaurant in the gay section of the town has a great selection of local food and wine, and an incredible basement for having a few drinks while waiting for your table.
Attimi: A ‘Slow food experience’ made with locally sourced fresh food. The service is quick and the food is light and fresh and perfect for sharing with a group.
Gaglio: A traditional Nicoise restaurant with a great selection of local cuisine. Located next to the park a short walk from the old town.
L’Empire: A modern dining restaurant in a minimalist style, the food is rich and full of flavour, the staff friendly (and attractive!)
CREDIT: Thai Airways / Two Bad Tourists
